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Napa Valley: The Frantic 2020s & Stunning 2021s (Feb 2023)

The 2017 Promontory is vibrant, focused and bristling with energy. Bright red-toned fruit, spice, crushed rocks and flowers convey energy, with floral notes that continue to open with aeration. This is an especially mid-weight, nervous vintage for Promontory, and yet all the elements are so well balanced. The 2017 is going to be a spectacular…

Vinous Table: The Harwood Arms, London, UK (Mar 2022)

We began with the 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Fairendes 1er Cru from Domaine Coffinet-Duvernay. This has a very aromatic nose, pithy at first, nectarine and yellow plum, hints of elderflower emerging with time. The palate is texturally a little honeyed on the entry, but like many 2017 whites, it is underpinned by a fine bead of…

Le Pupille: A Complete Retrospective 1987-2007
 (May 2011)

I had high hopes for Geppetti’s 2002 Saffredi after being bowled over by the 2002 Poggio Valente. I was not disappointed. The 2002 is a gorgeous, powerful wine laced with dark red fruit, sweet herbs, spices, white truffles and worn-in leather. The 2002 shows marvelous intensity in the lithe, focused style of the year. Notes…

A Vintage with Issues: Burgundy 2021 (Oct 2025)

The 2021 Mazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru has a well-defined bouquet with noticeable use of whole cluster that will put off those who dislike stems, though I appreciate this and find it lends freshness and complexity. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins mainly red fruit laced with Five Spice and white pepper. It gains some depth…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Medium red. Reticent, medicinal nose hints at cherry, raspberry, licorice and herbs. More tightly wound and spicy than the village Gevrey, conveying a slightly darker fruit character and a suggestion of medicinal reserve. Finishes with tongue-dusting tannins and lingering notes of licorice, spices and black pepper.

The Enigma of 2018 Barolo (Feb 2022)

The 2018 Barolo Coste di Rose is a delicate, understated Barolo that will need a bit of time to fully emerge. There's lovely purity to the fruit here, but also some angular contours that need to resolve. The 2018 is a mid-weight wine in the style of the vintage, and yet there is fine balance.