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Piedmont Within Reach (Dec 2022)

The 2020 Timorasso Derthona Montemarzino is a very beautiful and expressive white. Savory and mineral accents are front and center. Taut and nervous, with terrific energy, the 2020 is a fine example of what Timorasso can be. Dried lemon peel, almond, mint, graphite, chamomile and spice all take shape with a bit of coaxing. Readers…

2020 Barolo: Selective Excellence (Jan 2024)

The 2019 Barolo Cerretta has shut down considerably since I last tasted it, but the elements are also more put together in that the wine is a harmonious whole rather than a combination of individual components. Dark red fruit, rose petal, orange peel, spice and dried herbs are beautifully sketched. I would not dream of…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(made from 12 parcels encompassing 7 different terroirs, according to Grivot): Bright, dark red. Aromas of black cherry and cocoa powder. Juicy and energetic, showing lovely inner-mouth lift and refinement to its flavors of black fruits, licorice, violet and cocoa powder. Quite tightly wound on the sappy back end, spreading out subtly and leaving behind…

Through the Other Side: Burgundy 2016 in Bottle (Oct 2019)

The 2016 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru, the only vineyard not affected by frost, is showing some reduction on the nose, but even so, it is missing the same fruit intensity as some of Mugnier’s other 2016s. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, moderate weight, lightly spiced on the entry with a more structured finish that…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(not affected by frost; this vineyard features the youngest average vine age of the estate): Good medium red. Expressive aromas of red plum, redcurrant, mocha, underbrush and brown spices. A step up in juiciness from the Fuées but still with a chocolatey nuance to the flavors of plum, spices and earth. Finishes ripe and sweet,…

Northern Rhône: Where Diversity Ignites the Senses (Mar 2024)

The muscular 2019 Côte-Rôtie La Turque is a wine of substance and class. Powerful and deep, it exhibits a juicy core of succulent black fruits, crushed rocks, black olives, espresso, menthol and licorice. Firmly built like a brick wall and massively concentrated, it demands extended bottle-aging to come together. This is shaping up to be…