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Fairest of Them All: Cos d’Estournel 1928 – 2015 (Oct 2018)

The 2005 Cos d’Estournel is a vintage that I have encountered several times over the years. Here, as part of a 2005 horizontal of the top Bordeaux, it mirrors previous bottles. It has a tightly-wound bouquet at first with blackberry, scorched earth, juniper and hints of leather. More backward that its peers and clearly requiring…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good ruby-red. Knockout nose combines currant, plum, minerals, licorice and graphite. Wonderfully sweet, rich and deep, but with near-perfect balancing acidity to frame the wine’s lush fruit. This superb 2005 has it all. Finishes with noble, sweet tannins and palate-saturating persistence. On my most recent visit, Prats told me he considered 2005 to be superior…

2004 and 2003 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2006)

Deep red color. Positively explosive aromas of fresh cherry, redcurrant, blackberry and candied licorice (the most kirsch I’ve ever found in a wine, says Avril). Huge and mouthfilling, with serious weight but also excellent purity to the lush, powerful fruit. Deeply pitched dark chocolate and espresso add even more heft to the flavors, and roasted…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Lynch-Bages (Jan 2012)

(72% cabernet sauvignon, 15% merlot, 12% cabernet franc and 1% petit verdot; 3.67 pH; 70 IPT; 13.4% alcohol): Deep ruby. Delicate aromas of blackcurrant, mocha and graphite are lifted by minerals and violet. Enters pure, dense and round, then shows lively, precise flavors of black fruits, dried nuts, ink and minerals. This has greater volume…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Bright ruby-red. Expressive, classic aromas of currant, mocha, smoke and camphor. Rich, broad and ripe but impressively young, offering flavors of dark berries, chocolate, spices and smoke enlivened by firm acidity. This coats the palate nicely on the long finish, with tannins that are riper and sweeter than those of the 2006.

Passing the Baton: Lynch-Bages 1945-2018 (Jul 2023)

The 2005 Lynch-Bages is more opulent on the nose with camphor-tinged black and red fruit, desiccated orange peel and sage. With time, it develops a lovely floral component. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannins, bold and brassy with plenty of substance. This is no shy retiring wallflower but rather a demonstrative, almost flamboyant Pauillac…