Archives: Product Reviews

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2001 and 2000 Red Burgundies (Mar 2003)

Good medium red. Cooler, more aristocratic nose than the Clos de Beze: blackberry, violet, minerals. Supple and suave but quite pure and sharply focused, with a degree of precision rare for the vintage. Finishes with terrific grip. Like the Clos Saint-Jacques and Clos de Beze, this may well ultimately merit a higher score.

Caught Somewhere in Time: Clos de Tart 1887-2016 (Feb 2019)

The 1993 Clos de Tart Grand Cru is definitely one of the better wines from the decade. It is looking quite mature with wide bricking on the rim. But I adore the bouquet of vivacious red berry fruit, undergrowth (damp moss and fern) and veins of dried blood. The palate is medium-bodied with nicely pitched…

In a Tuscan State of Mind (Aug 2013)

Lodovico Antinori’s 2010 Il Pino di Biserno impresses for its layered personality and pure length. Delineated, nuanced and highly expressive, the 2010 is all about refinement. Clean veins of minerality provide the underlying framework as this aromatic, beguiling red continues to open up in the glass. Mocha, menthol, tobacco and sweet herbs wrap around the…

Brunello di Montalcino 2007 and 2006 Riserva (Jul 2012)

Medium red. Very rich aromas of plum, mocha, dried flowers, underbrush and leather, along with a liqueur-like suggestion of marc de Chateauneuf. Supple, plush and highly concentrated, with superripe fruit flavors slightly leavened by harmonious acidity. A distinctly viscous, fruit-driven wine that could use a bit more class and definition but will please fans of…

Brunello di Montalcino 2007: A Worthy Successor to 2006 (Apr 2012)

The 2007 Brunello di Montalcino Tenuta Nuova saturates the palate with masses of super-ripe dark fruit, tar, licorice and new leather. The Tenuta Nuova is an especially full-bodied, seamless Sangiovese deeply influenced by the Mediterranean climate of this warm site in the south of Montalcino. Layers of fruit build to an effortless, resonant finish laced…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Good medium-deep ruby-red. Superripe, roasted aromas of black raspberry, chocolate and licorice. Wonderfully dense, sweet and lush, with an early roundness rare for this wine. A monumental St. Estephe with almost confectionery sweetness. Wonderfully horizontal, palate-saturating wine with huge but thoroughly ripe, lush tannins. It’s hard to believe that a wine this rich and deep…