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2003 Barolo: Ten Years Later (Jun 2014)

The 2003 Sperss has aged a little better than the Conteisa, which is not surprising considering its Serralunga origins and the firmer tannins that have helped maintain a sense of freshness. Smoke, iron, graphite and spices add nuance in a dark, powerful wine with plenty of intensity. My preference would be to drink the 2003…

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2007)

Good deep red. Deep, brooding aromas of plum, menthol, truffle, marzipan and chestnut; very Serralunga. Fat, sweet and full but youthfully inexpressive; impressively thick but monolithic at present. This expands dramatically toward the back, finishing with huge, broad tannins. A very tight wine in need of extended aging: I can see this being quite long-lived,…

1995 and 1994 Bordeaux (May 1996)

Very good deep red-ruby. Rather dumb nose exudes a faint shoe polish aroma. Dense, velvety, soft and mouthcoating; fills those hard-to-reach spots on your palate. Really an outsized wine, with thick, chocolatey fruit and major dusty tannins. But currently monolithic. In France they’d call this Monsieur Plus.”

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1988 Léoville Barton has a lovely nose of brambly black fruit, melted tar, tobacco leaf and undergrowth, very traditional in style but after three decades, remaining fresher and more vibrant than many of its peers. The palate is medium-bodied and possesses more fruit and greater density than the Langoa-Barton. I love the acidity here…

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

It has been several years since I last encountered the 1988 Léoville Barton. It is just a tad smudged on the nose compared to the 1988 Lynch Bages. Pencil box aromas mix with black fruit and a liberal sprinkling of black pepper. The palate has evolved in the interim period, grainier in texture than I…

In Excelsis: Château Latour 1887 – 2010 (Jul 2018)

The 1978 Latour, served from ex-château double magnums, is a wine that I have encountered several times over the years. Of course, provenance plays its part, likewise the large format, yet I remain unconvinced that this is a top-flight Latour. At least the bouquet is fresh with cedar and pencil lead aromas, commendably detailed considering…