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Poggio Scalette: Il Carbonaione 1992-2007 (Jul 2008)

The estate’s 1997 Carbonaione is sweet, ripe and full-bodied, but with plenty of supporting structure underneath. Complex notes of tobacco, leather, sweet herbs and spices have developed in bottle, rounding out this soft-textured, caressing Carbonaione. As is often the case with wines from warm vintages, provenance is especially critical. Impeccably stored bottles have as much…

Best New Releases From Italy (Jan 2000)

Fresh ruby. Spicy, urgent aromas of crushed blackberry, blackcurrant, licorice and violet. Primary, bright and sharply focused, with ripe, nicely integrated acidity; sexy smoky oak complicates the impressively intense flavors. This big boy seems to carry its sweetness even deeper into its finish than past vintages of this wine. A real whiplash of flavor on…

Daniel Thomases on Tuscany (Jul 2000)

Deep, solid ruby-garnet. Powerful in aroma, with notes of tobacco, tar, damp earth and vanilla. Full, intense flavors are nonetheless tightly wound and in need of bottle aging. Powerful tannins upholster the palate. Dense and concentrated on the finish.

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Opaque ruby. Complex aromas of black cherry, black raspberry, blueberry, minerals, clove and caramel. Lush and oaky, but less forthcoming today than the Virginie. Can’t match the ’98 Valandraud for depth of flavor or sweetness, but finishes with lovely, lush tannins. A hint of fresh herbs on the aftertaste.

Daniel Thomases on Tuscany (Jul 2000)

Deep, dark ruby. Expansive, powerful aromas of rosemary and sage and sweet tar from the toasting of the barrels. Smooth and balanced on the palate, with classic Bordeaux-like flavors of cassis, minerals and graphite. Volume swelled by the alcoholic warmth. Finishes with good intensity. Poised and classy.

Ornellaia: A Major Retrospective 1985-2006 (Dec 2009)

The 1997 Ornellaia (magnum) is a big, fat wine endowed with tons of fruit. Mocha, coffee beans and ripe, dark fruit emerge from the glass on a rich, opulent frame. The structural elements are easy to overlook, as the tannins are so juicy and ripe, and the fruit is incredibly intense. Simply put, everything is…