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2013 and 2012 White Burgundies (Sep 2014)

(aging in a single new 228-liter barrel): Bright light-medium yellow. Strong nutty oak on the spicy nose. The fattest and sweetest of these 2013s, but without quite the inner-mouth tension of the Chevalier. But the long, broad, expanding finish conveys an impression of great solidity, with the wine’s deeply pitched fruit-and-spice aftertaste enrobed by its…

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 1994 Beychevelle is one of the surprise packages of this almost forgotten vintage. It has a light bouquet with blackberry, iodine and cedar scents—simple but effective. The palate is medium-bodied with a fleshy texture and fine acidity. There is an almost pastille-like purity to this Saint-Julien, pretty and winsome, plus it gains depth with…

2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Dutruch Grand Poujeaux has an attractive bouquet with blackberry, cedar and touches of cigar smoke, gaining delineation with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with a sapid entry and gentle grip, quite saline in character with decent weight on the finish. There is still a little attenuation, but it remains an above-par Moulis-en-Médoc.

Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 Dutruch Grand Poujeaux has an attractive, well-defined bouquet of blackberry, cedar and light tobacco scents. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, and a little attenuated on the finish, but I appreciate the freshness and vitality.

Bordeaux 2020: Saving the Best for Last (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Cantemerle comes across pretty much as it did from barrel. Super-ripe dark cherry, plum and sweet spice gives this a good bit of exuberance. I don’t mind the very ripe style so much, but it is the lack of mid-palate and finish that is more problematic.