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A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2002 Cos d’Estournel is quite deep in colour with only faint bricking on the rim. The nose evokes an era when I feel that the winemaking team back then pushed the concentration to the maximum. So we have black plum, a touch of prune mixed with marmalade, scents redolent of a richer growing season,…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2005)

Good deep ruby-red. Inky aromas of currant, black cherry, minerals and smoky oak. Tightly wound but not at all hard. The flavors of black fruits, minerals and graphite are enlivened by bright acidity (3.56 grams). A very classy wine with sneaky depth of flavor, in a distinctly cooler style than the 2003 but built to…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2002 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande has a relatively simple nose compared to recent vintages with scents of blackberry, raspberry coulis, soy and leather. Still quite youthful. The palate is medium-bodied, a bit dry and austere with grainy tannins, leather and tobacco mixed with white pepper, though it lacks a bit of freshness on the…

2015 Barolo…The Bigger Picture (Feb 2019)

I tasted Canonica’s 2015 Barolo Paiagallo from two casks. The first sample was heavily reduced, while the second showed a wine of notable translucence, energy and pure class. At this stage, it is unfortunately impossible to have a clear idea of how the finished wine will turn out.

2017 Barolo, Part 2: The Late Releases (Oct 2021)

The 2017 Barolo del Comune di Serralunga d’Alba is loaded with savory and earthy accents that complement a dark expression of Nebbiolo. Black cherry, leather, game, smoke, tobacco and licorice build nicely in the glass. A year or two should help soften the Serralunga tannins.

Trentino & Alto Adige: The Sky’s the Limit (Jun 2022)

The 2017 San Leonardo is dark, inward and intense with masses of crushed black currants, mint, sage, and balsamic spice. This pulls you close, as further depths of clove and tobacco form in the glass. It coasts along the palate with dense and polished textural fruits, mineral to the core, yet also elevated by brisk…