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Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 1996 Ducru-Beaucaillou is a vintage that I have not tasted for a number of years. Matured in two-thirds new oak, it has an open and expressive bouquet, a mixture of red and black fruit, estuarine scents, touches of liquorice emerging with time. It is higher-toned than the 1995 with iodine evolving with aeration. The…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Bright medium ruby. Deep, superripe aromas of dark berries, black cherry and bitter chocolate; slightly exotic crystallized fruit aspect. Dense, sweet and wonderfully rich; a lovely combination of palate-caressing chocolatey fruit and firm underlying structure. Finishes with excellent grip and great palate-saturating sweetness. Another outstanding 1996 Medoc wine in the making. Drink 2010 through 2030.

1997 and 1996 Red Burgundies (Mar 1999)

Palish cherry red. Pungent aromas of tart red berries, framboise, eucalyptus and rhubarb. Sweet, fleshy and smooth, but offers only modest clarity and thrust for a ’96. Finishes with rather light tannins and a suggestion of heat. Quite gently extracted.

2001 and 2000 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2003)

Roasted aromas of game, truffle, smoke and pepper. Rich, supple and smoky, with subtle animal and woodsmoke flavors and lovely vinosity. A rather polite La Landonne, finishing with leather and smoke notes, fine tannins and very good length. A bit tight after the recent bottling: will it show the grip for outstanding?

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1989 Cos d’Estournel has a deep garnet core with some bricking on the rim. On the nose, it shows exactly the same as before, offering a gorgeous mélange of mulberry, rust, fennel and light garrigue notes, very well defined and even a little rustic in style. The aromatics have aged better than the medium-bodied…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full medium ruby. High-pitched, perfumed aromas of dark berries, minerals and violet; very cabernet. Rich, dense and youthful; broad and beefy, with cassis, black cherry and bitter chocolate flavors. Finishes very sweet and long, with fine tannins spreading out impressively to coat the palate. A great showing. Drink now through 2015.