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2001 and 2000 Red Burgundies (Mar 2003)

Saturated red-ruby. Nicely delineated aromas of black raspberry, cherry and minerals. Bright, high-pitched fruits sweetened by spicy oak. Finishes very suave, sappy and long, with fine-grained tannins. Very expressive for this wine at such a young stage of its evolution.

2001 and 2000 Red Burgundies (Mar 2003)

Saturated red-ruby. Nicely delineated aromas of black raspberry, cherry and minerals. Bright, high-pitched fruits sweetened by spicy oak. Finishes very suave, sappy and long, with fine-grained tannins. Very expressive for this wine at such a young stage of its evolution.

2012 Bordeaux: Messages in a Bottle (Jan 2016)

The 2012 Reseve de la Comtesse is round, sensual and inviting, with sweet floral notes that give the wine much of its up-front appeal. Silky, polished tannins wrap around a core of black cherry jam, plum, smoke and savory herbs. The 2012 could use a bit more mid-palate depth, but it is an attractive wine…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2012 Réserve de la Comtesse has a well-defined pencil box-scented bouquet, tightly-wound black fruit with just a light floral tincture. The palate is medium-bodied with firm grip, a little dry compared to the previous wine [2012 d’Armailhac]. Bullish and assertive with strong tobacco notes on the finish. Where will this go? Tasted blind at…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Cheval Blanc (Oct 2011)

(13.6% alcohol; 40 h/h): Bright red. Very complex, deep nose of blackcurrant, red cherry, coffee, tar, tobacco leaf and flowers. Then smooth, rich and dense, with a creamy texture and lively acidity nicely extending the flavors of dark berries, plum, mocha, soy sauce, leather and Oriental spices. A ripely tannic wine with a rich, exotic…

Cellar Journal: Bordeaux 1920-2015 (Dec 2019)

The 1990 Cheval Blanc is a vintage that once upon a time I drank regularly, although I had not seen it since March 2016. Poured against the 1990 Lafite-Rothschild, this is the clear winner. Still youthful in color with modest bricking. The bouquet explodes from the glass with kirsch, mulberry, antique furniture and black truffle…