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The Best of Northern Italy (Feb 2011)

Dal Forno should really change the name of his 2005 Valpolicella Superiore. This is really an Amarone for all practical intents and purposes, since 2002 made entirely from fruit that has been dried, albeit for less time than that legally required for Amarone. Firm, sturdy tannins frame blackberries, blueberries, violets and new leather in the…

The Red Wines of Northeast Italy (Mar 2012)

Dark ruby. Deep aromas of smoky redcurrant, cooked plum, underbrush, herbs and cocoa. Enters the mouth creamy and nicely concentrated, with black pepper, spice and herb notes adding lift to the red fruit and chocolate flavors. A little chunky and less complex than usual for Dal Forno owing to the poor vintage but still shows…

Veneto: Stunning Landscapes, Stunning Wines (Mar 2014)

The 2008 Amarone della Valpolicella is compelling. With a little air, the tannins begin to soften, releasing a myriad of intense dark aromas and flavors. Bittersweet chocolate, cloves, violets, plums and blackberry jam cover every inch of the palate in a stunning, headspinning Amarone that captures all of the best qualities of the year. When…

Chianti Classico 2015 & 2016: Right Place, Right Time (Feb 2019)

The 2015 Siepi, Mazzei’s flagship Sangiovese/Merlot, is powerful and voluptuous on the palate. Black cherry, plum, chocolate, leather, licorice and espresso fill out the wine’s ample frame nicely. Silky tannins and soft curves add to the wine’s undeniable appeal.

2017 Barolo, Part 2: The Late Releases (Oct 2021)

The 2017 Barolo Ornato offers a bit more mid-palate density and volume than the Mosconi tasted alongside it. Like that wine, it is an infant that will need time to truly blossom. Sweet red cherry, sage, mint, rosewater and dried flowers lend striking intrigue throughout. The Ornato is a super-impressive wine that shows the more…

The Enigma of 2018 Barolo (Feb 2022)

The 2018 Barolo Bussia is a blend of Rocche and Munie. Pliant and racy in the glass, the 2018 is laced with dark fruit, mocha, sweet spice and licorice. Dried rose petal, mint, spice, kirsch, new French oak and dried flowers all build with aeration. The oak imprint is a bit prominent at this stage,…