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Burgundy With A Bit of Age: 2000-2014 (May 2019)

The 2006 La Tâche Grand Cru is a vintage that I had not tasted since it was in barrel. But what a gorgeous wine it has turned out. The bouquet is so seductive, a heady mixture of red and blue fruit, pressed violets and citrus fruit that soar from the glass with amazing precision. The…

Vinous Icons: Roederer – Four Decades of Cristal & Cristal Rosé (Nov 2024)

The 2004 Cristal is nuanced and classy right out of the gate. Hints of lemon confit, marzipan, tangerine oil, spice and chamomile are all suggestive of a Champagne that has arrived at its first inflection point of early maturity. The interplay of slightly more mature notes with a good deal of freshness makes for an…

Written in the Stars: Bordeaux 1865-2020 (Dec 2023)

The 2009 Pichon Baron is similar to the previous bottle. Precocious black fruit mixes with graphite and black truffle. A light marine influence becomes more evident with aeration. It couldn’t come from anywhere but Pauillac. The palate is beautifully balanced with a seam of graphite interwoven through the layered black fruit. This is nicely poised…

Vinous Table: The Dysart at Petersham, Richmond, UK (Sep 2024)

To finish, back on “home turf” with the 1989 Yquem. It is a vintage I have drunk many times in recent years: quince, apricots, honey and saffron burst forth on the nose with brilliant delineation. The palate is a little tauter than in previous bottles, with marmalade and quince to the fore and an energetic,…

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

The 1989 Yquem is such an excellent Sauternes that just never lets you down. It has similar aromatics to the previous bottle a couple of years ago with saffron and quince. A little more marmalade comes through with aeration. There’s real energy and outstanding delineation here. The palate is well-balanced and takes time to meld…

Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 1989 Yquem is my favourite of the triumvirate and this bottle was stellar. It explodes from the glass with scents of quince, acacia, honeysuckle, saffron and wild heather (a trait that I have observed previously). What marks this out is the stunning delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with tangerine, fig, marmalade and quince. A…