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Enigma Variations: Lafleur 1955-2015 (Nov 2018)

The 1993 Lafleur can be a great vintage but this bottle suggested that its tannins might be usurping the fruit. It has a rustic, earthy, ferrous nose that feels a little jarring at first, although it gains cohesion with time. The palate is medium-bodied with coarse and gritty tannin. As I have written before, it…

2008 and 2007 Red Burgundies (Mar 2010)

Good full red. Reticent nose hints at plum, cherry, cinnamon and pepper. Tightly wound and imploded; much more backward than the premier cru. Not a particularly big or powerful version of Clos des Lambrays but shows the structured side of the vintage more than its sweetness of fruit. This seems to be closing down now….

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

A huge, dramatic wine, the 2015 Haut-Brion is magnificent. Vertical in its construction and towering in its reach, the 2015 is going to need a good decade-plus to even start becoming approachable, as it needs to lose baby fat and develop the full range of its aromatics. Even at this early stage, though, it is…

Finally: Bordeaux 2015 In Bottle (Jul 2019)

The 2015 Haut-Brion has a gorgeous bouquet of great amplitude, featuring lush but controlled red berry fruit laced with chestnut and hints of game, all generous and intoxicating yet not overblown. The palate is medium-bodied with quite an oaky, coconut-tinged entry. Surprisingly savory, almost animally in style, it feels warm and fleshy and also a…

The 2013 Red Burgundies: Fascinating and Challenging (Mar 2016)

Good dark red. Reduced nose dominated by strawberry and raspberry. Wonderfull silky on entry, then quite closed on the back half, with the element of reduction carrying through on the palate. Showed some enticing dark raspberry and game notes with air. Finishes firmly tannic but not dry. This wine was tough to taste following Rousseau’s…

Ten Years On: Burgundy 2013 (Oct 2023)

The 2013 Ruchottes-Chambertin Clos des Ruchottes Grand Cru initially has a backward and slightly disjointed bouquet, but it just requires aeration. After a few minutes, crushed limestone infuses the black rather than red fruit. It’s a little rustic, loamy and slightly fungal in style. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, not a complex Ruchottes-Chambertin,…