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Memories Elide: Vieux Château Certan 1923-2020 (Jul 2024)

The 2015 Vieux Château Certan is a wine that Alexandre Thienpont described as being “easy to understand.” He was rather negative towards this vintage and likened it to a barbecue rather than haut cuisine! It was picked in three waves through the vines between September 17 and October 2 at 42hl/ha. This has a comparatively…

A Woman’s Touch: Lafleur 1985-2022 (Sep 2025)

The 2006 Lafleur is a little better than previous bottles, opening nicely with blackberry, Italian delicatessen, light crushed stone scents and a hint of bay leaf. It is a conservative but exhibits more terroir expression than the 2007. The palate is firm and structured and lacks a bit of flair, but there is ample concentration…

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Good full, deep red. Brooding aromas of black cherry, cherry pit and licorice, plus a note that reminded me of a liqueur of flowers. Sweet, chewy and very ripe, but with restraint and focus to the youthful, mineral-driven flavors of dark fruits, licorice and pepper. This shows the cooler, medicinal cast of a classic young…

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

The La Grave is a muscular, authoritative Pomerol. Here the flavors are dark and intense, while the wine’s vertical sense of structure adds to an impression of brooding, virile power. Black cherry, lavender, menthol, scorched earth and grilled herb inflections, along with potent tannins, give La Grave its distinctly baritone voice. I would prefer to…

Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Domaine de Chevalier has always been an impressive wine for the vintage. This has a superb bouquet with blackberry, graphite, sea spray and pressed roses, which are very well-defined and classy. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant, fine tannins, a keen line of acidity, fresh with white pepper and allspice towards the harmonious…

2014 Bordeaux: A September Surprise (Feb 2017)

The 2014 Domaine de Chevalier is a total knockout. Precise, brilliant and finely sculpted, the 2014 possesses superb intensity. Freshly cut flowers, mint and sweet red berries, along with finessed but persistent tannins, give the wine its regal personality. The 2014 needs a number of years to shed some baby fat and develop the full…