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A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2012 Cheval Blanc has a lovely bouquet with raspberry coulis, hints of marmalade and just a touch of espresso, nicely detailed though not intense. The palate is medium-bodied with a strict entry. This is quite backward and tight, lightly spiced with a touch of sour cherry and cracked black pepper on the finish. This…

The Consistently Delectable 2014 Red Burgundies (Jan 2016)

(10% new oak): Bright medium red. Captivating nose offers aromas of cherry, brown spices, mocha, menthol and underbrush lifted by high notes of blood orange and flowers. Liqueur-like raspberry and spice flavors show outstanding precision and perfume thanks to a firm mineral spine. Finishes spicy, refined and very long, saturating the mouth without leaving any…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Full red-ruby. Pure, subtly perfumed aromas of blackberry, spices and licorice. Dense but youthfully linear, showing lovely finesse of texture to its tight-grained flavors of dark fruits, spices and saline minerality lifted by violet. With its compact kernel of fruit, this is neither sweet nor easygoing today, but its precision and definition call to mind…

Focus on Spain (Sep 2014)

Vivid ruby. Heady aromas of fresh blackberry, boysenberry and smoky minerals are complicated by pungent hints of vanilla, violet and allspice. Lush, intensely flavored and focused, offering deep dark berry and cherry compote flavors and a suave spicecake nuance. Finishes smooth, sweet and very long, with resonating spiciness, a hint of licorice and fully absorbed…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2019 Morey-Saint-Denis La Forge de Tart 1er Cru has an open nose with touches of potpourri infusing the red berry fruit, brown spices and just a faint hint of espresso. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a fine bead of acidity, quite fresh and tensile towards the finish that feels very precise. This…

Caught Somewhere in Time: Clos de Tart 1887-2016 (Feb 2019)

The 2012 Clos de Tart Grand Cru is definitely one of the finer contributions from winemaker Sylvain Pitiot during his reign. One parcel was picked on September 19, but the main picking was September 28 until October 1. The yield was a measly 14.3hl/ha, alcohol at 14.2°. It was also the first vintage entirely plowed…