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Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Volnay Clos des Ducs 1er Cru is the one cuvée that takes the longest to open in the glass. Like a door ajar, it lets you peek inside but not enter: mineral-rich dark berry fruit, hints of Earl Grey and forest floor. This is well-defined with discrete use of oak once more. The…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru had been bottled in October 2023, just before my visit at the Domaine. It has a compact nose: mainly black cherries and crushed strawberry fruit, well-defined if maybe missing the amplitude of other Bonnes-Mares that I have tasted. The medium-bodied palate has a slightly creamy-textured opening, sweet blackberry and raspberry…

The 2018 Barolos, Part 2 (Oct 2022)

The 2018 Barolo Francia is powerful, deep and also a touch austere. It shows the edginess of all the 2018s, but also has a feeling of textural creaminess that adds tons of character. Spice, menthol, leather and a whole range of balsamic overtones build into the deep, imposing finish. Roberto Conterno decided to forego his…

The Enigma of 2018 Barolo (Feb 2022)

The 2018 Barolo Francia impresses with its complexity and multi-dimensional personality. The bouquet alone is mesmerizing. Rose petal, blood orange, cinnamon and dried herbs lend notable aromatic presence. There's plenty of breadth, power and resonance, all in the nervy style of the year. In 2018, Conterno will not make a Monfortino, so all of that…

Chianti Classico: The Brilliant 2021s & Variable 2020s (Aug 2023)

The 2020 Solaia is an infant. I expected a more exuberant wine, but the 2020 is built along more classic lines. Black cherry, plum, gravel, incense, smoke, pencil shavings and spice all open effortlessly. As always, Solaia is a Cabernet Sauvignon-based wine, but it is a Cabernet that is distinctly Italian, with plenty of Tuscan…

2020 Tuscany Preview (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Solaia is an infant. I expected a more exuberant wine, but the 2020 is built along more classic lines. Black cherry, plum, gravel, incense, smoke, pencil shavings and spice all open effortlessly. As always, Solaia is a Cabernet Sauvignon-based wine, but it is a Cabernet that is distinctly Italian, with plenty of Tuscan…