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BOND: A Complete Retrospective (Nov 2017)

In a vintage that produced big, massively tannic wines, the 2013 Pluribus stands out for its total finesse. Pluribus is also the most delicate and refined of the Bond 2013s. Lavender, mint, violet, plum and a host of bluish/purplish fruits all develop with time, but it is the wine’s lifted, gracious personality that makes the…

A Bond Extravaganza (Jun 2017)

Saturated medium ruby. Inky scents of blueberry, blackberry and violet suggest a slightly cooler, powerfully structured wine. Then very concentrated but brooding on the palate, with outstanding intensity to its blackest berry, menthol, mineral and licorice flavors. Showing little in the way of early pliancy or appeal, this very tannic, youthfully tough wine will need…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Smith Haut Lafitte was very impressive in barrel, and now in bottle, it delivers. Wonderful precision on the nose, subtle at first but unfurling with each swirl of the glass, revealing scents of blackberry and crushed stone, iris petals like before, and maybe a touch more violet. The palate is medium-bodied with fine…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Smith Haut Lafitte is a powerful wine. Huge, searing tannins dominate the balance. Readers will have to be exceedingly patient. With several hours of air the fruit finally starts to emerge. Blackberry, grilled herb, smoke, licorice and incense all take shape in the glass. The impression is of brooding, somber, unrestrained power. Sadly,…

The 2013 and 2012 Northern Rhône Wines (Feb 2015)

Inky purple. A wild, highly perfumed bouquet evokes ripe black and blue fruits, incense, olive paste and smoky minerals. Sweet, penetrating and pure, offering palate-staining boysenberry and cassis flavors and suggestions of candied licorice and fruitcake. Densely packed yet lively, finishing with remarkable power and smooth tannins that add shape and grip.

In Good Taste: Branaire-Ducru 1928-2013 (Mar 2020)

The 1982 Branaire-Ducru was surprisingly deep in color with just thin bricking on the rim. The nose is a mixture of red and black fruit, secondary aromas of fireside hearth, mint and cedar surfacing with time. This is certainly one of the more fragrant aromatics from the Saint-Julien. The palate is medium-bodied and well balanced,…