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Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2009)

Full, deep red. Incredible nose combines red fruits, blood orange, minerals, spices and smoked meat. Sappy, silky and extremely intense yet somehow weightless, with a pristine quality to its fruit and mineral flavors. This saturates every millimeter of the palate with flavor, with the extraordinary rising finish going on for two minutes or more. Again,…

2006 and 2005 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2008)

Dark purple. The nose offers a kaleidoscopic bouquet of dark berry preserves, Asian spices, incense and fresh flowers. Impressively deep and velvety, with sweet blackcurrant and boysenberry flavors and gentle mineral lift. Really stains the palate, finishing with outstanding cling and sappy persistence. The oak spice, which was so noticeable and bothersome to me last…

Cellar Journal: Bordeaux 1920-2015 (Dec 2019)

The 2004 Léoville–Las Cases has the tough job of following the 2005. It offers black fruit mixed with sous-bois, smoke and sage aromas, now moving into its secondary stage but without the intensity of great vintages like 2005 or 2010. The palate is well balanced, with off-dry tannin. Classic in style, fresh and poised, leading…

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Deep red-ruby. Expressive aromas of currant, plum, mocha, tobacco and minerals, with a slight dusty character. Supple but a bit youthfully inky, with a dusty quality to the moderately sweet fruit. This is a bit dry compared to the young 2006, and one has the impression that the oak tannins are less successfully integrated with…

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2004 Léoville Las Cases has a noticeable mintiness on the nose that actually complements the red fruit, though it deviates away from what you might call Saint-Julien typicité. After ten minutes, it coheres with ash and black tea aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with a rounded texture on the entry. The 2004 shows fine…

Tuscany 2009 and 2010: A World of Opposites (Jun 2012)

The 2008 Ornellaia continues to blossom in the bottle. Dark cherries, chocolate, espresso, blackberries and mocha are just some of the many notes that explode from the glass. A rich tapestry of licorice, tar and camphor notes develop in the glass, adding considerable complexity. The 2008 is a huge, structured Ornellaia endowed with massive structure….