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Northern Rhône: 2016 and 2017 Reds (Sep 2019)

Saturated purple. Hugely perfumed aromas of dark berry preserves, incense, potpourri, smoky bacon and spicecake. Cola, olive and cracked pepper flourishes build with air. Youthfully and broad in the mouth, offering deeply concentrated, sharply defined black/blue fruit, spicecake, vanilla and violet pastille flavors that are brightened by a smoky mineral accent. Chewy and appealingly sweet…

A Janus with Soul: Figeac 1943–2016 (Dec 2021)

Having tasted the 2007 Figeac a few times, I was intrigued how this bottle would show. The nose does not possess the intensity of the 2008. The Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon impart tobacco scents, autumn leaves and a touch of ash. You kind of wish there was more fruit. The palate is slightly better since…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good medium ruby. Ripe black cherry and licorice aromas. Moderately sweet and rich, with dark fruit and licorice flavors framed by spicy oak. The persistent, firm finish features a note of bitter chocolate. Very typical Figeac, hinting at cabernet but showing a pliant texture in the style of the year.

Ten Years On: Burgundy 2013 (Oct 2023)

The 2013 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Garenne 1er Cru has a delineated and vibrant bouquet with perfumed linden, orange zest and lychee scents. The palate is well balanced with fine acidity, fresh on the entry with decent weight and a vivid grapefruit and lychee-tinged finish. This is a very capable Puligny that is worth seeking…

The 2014 & 2013 White Burgundies (Sep 2015)

Straw-yellow. Peach, apple, pear and clove on the nose; cooler than the Meursault cuvées. Juicy and intense, offering sharply delineated, mineral-driven orchard fruit flavors. This wiry high-altitude wine is a bit austere on the back end.

2002 and 2001 White Burgundies (Sep 2003)

(bottled barely two weeks prior to my visit) Aromas of crystallized peach, yellow plum, spices and menthol. At once rich and high-pitched; tightly wound and less showy and sweet than the Bienvenue. A rather austere, even severe style of Batard, finishing uncompromisingly dry but with excellent chewy length.