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Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 L’Eglise-Clinet was picked September 27–29, a rapid harvest within three days; winemaker Noëmie Durantou told me she wanted to beat the forecasted rain that would have diluted the fruit. Raised in 75% new oak, this has a less concentrated, mineral-driven bouquet that bides its time, offering nuanced pine cone scents with aeration. The…

2021 Bordeaux En Primeur: Back to Classicism (May 2022)

The 2021 L’Eglise-Clinet is a spherical, sensual Pomerol of uncommon depth and intensity. Racy and voluptuous, with terrific depth, the 2021 is striking. Crème de cassis, chocolate, new leather, spice, menthol and licorice all build as the 2021 opens in the glass. The combination of power and finesse is remarkable. I especially admire the energy…

2021 Bordeaux En Primeur: Back to Classicism (May 2022)

The 2021 Mouton Rothschild is a potent, tightly wound Pauillac that will need a number of years to come together. Driving in its intensity, with searing tannins, the 2021 comes across as a bit severe today, with less of the charm and sensuality that is such a Mouton signature. That said, I was not thrilled…

Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 Mouton Rothschild marks a return to the classic style of this First Growth after three hot vintages. Unsurprisingly, the Cabernet Sauvignon takes control and expresses cigar smoke and graphite aromas. This is very well defined, yet examining the wine over several minutes, I was searching in vain for that “magic touch” exuded in…

2021 Bordeaux: L’Enfant Terrible (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Mouton Rothschild is gorgeous, just as it was en primeur. A wine of stature and vertical build, the 2021 is wonderfully poised from the outset. Beams of tannin add to an impression of explosive lift. Touches of mocha, spice, new leather, cedar and blood orange begin to emerge with a bit of time…

2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Mouton-Rothschild, matured in 100% new oak for 18 months, has a “serious” Cabernet-driven bouquet, just as it had out of barrel. Graphite-infused black fruit mixes with tobacco and touches of incense, the latter a feature that I did not notice previously. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins. Silky smooth in texture, it…