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The Enigma of 2018 Barolo (Feb 2022)

The 2018 Barolo Cerequio is a new wine in this range. Soaring aromatics and bright, red-toned fruit give the Cerequio its effusive personality. Nuanced and deep, with tremendous complexity and tons of character, the Cerequio is dazzling. This is everything a great Barolo from Cerequio should be. In other words: textbook. More over, it's one…

The Enigma of 2018 Barolo (Feb 2022)

The 2018 Barolo Mosconi shows all the gravitas and natural darkness of this site, but in miniature. Black cherry, plum, gravel, smoke, crushed rocks and incense fill out the layers. There is plenty of Mosconi muscle, even if the volume of the best years isn't there.

2016 Barolo, Part 2 & Late Releases (Oct 2020)

The 2016 Barolo is a terrific example of the year. Bright acids and veins of supporting tannins give the 2016 its super-classic feel. Sweet red cherry fruit, chalk, mint, dried flowers, cedar, anise and sweet pipe tobacco all grace this translucent, mid-weight Barolo. Best of all, the 2016 can be enjoyed with just a few…

The 2022 Champagne New Releases (May 2022)

The 2013 Brut Rosé Emotion is more interesting than the 2014 tasted alongside it, as it has more depth and overall textural presence. Here, too, I find the fruit a bit faded, while the oak imprint is unusually strong. The blend is 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay. Disgorged: April, 2020.

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Champeaux 1er Cru has a fragrant bouquet with cranberry, wild strawberry and light tobacco scents. There is a slightly melted quality to this Champeaux that is attractive. The palate is medium-bodied with a smooth entry, very pliant tannins, red fruit mixed with allspice and clove, a hint of white pepper towards…

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Beaune Clos des Rouches Rouge 1er Cru, picked September 4–7, contains a little more whole cluster fruit this year – around 30%, according to Véronique Drouhin. Sensual, ripe red cherry, cranberry and subtle bergamot tea aromas gently unfold in the glass. The palate is well balanced with supple tannin, good substance, veins of…