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Veneto: The Land of Opportunity (Mar 2023)

Taking in the 2017 Valpolicella Superiore Monte Lodoletta reminds me of all of the desserts, spices and confections experienced on Christmas day. An array of medicinal cherries, plum sauce, ginger cookies, cloves, cinnamon and dried roses captivate. There’s tremendous depth here, but it maintains fantastic freshness. This is wildly spicy and intense, yet deep, with…

Caught Somewhere in Time: Clos de Tart 1887-2016 (Feb 2019)

The 2012 Clos de Tart Grand Cru is definitely one of the finer contributions from winemaker Sylvain Pitiot during his reign. One parcel was picked on September 19, but the main picking was September 28 until October 1. The yield was a measly 14.3hl/ha, alcohol at 14.2°. It was also the first vintage entirely plowed…

The 2013 & 2012 Red Burgundies (Apr 2015)

A deep, dense wine, the 2012 Clos de Tart presents an incredibly appealing personality, although it is going to need quite a bit of time to shed some of its considerable youthful exuberance. Cherry jam, plum, dark spices, menthol and new leather flesh out in a wine of substantial depth and pure intensity. The 2012…

The 2012 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Mar 2015)

Bright dark red. Very ripe aromas of musky cherry, smoked meat, chocolate and woodsmoke. Hugely rich and voluminous, conveying a youthful aggressiveness to its thick, saline flavors of dark berries, brown spices and licorice. This wine does not have quite the floral lift of the 2013 and will need more time in bottle to absorb…

The 2013 & 2012 Red Burgundies (Apr 2015)

As usual, I tasted Clos de Tart in its separate fermentations and then in an approximate blend. The late harvest produced a dark, brooding Clos de Tart endowed with fabulous depth. Dark and deeply spiced to the core, the 2013 is incredibly vivid in the glass, with gorgeous interplay between the old-vine fruit and aromatic…

Caught Somewhere in Time: Clos de Tart 1887-2016 (Feb 2019)

The 2013 Clos de Tart Grand Cru was picked from October 8. I prefer the bouquet to that of the more confit-like 2014; this is very fresh and vivacious, offering black cherries mixed with blueberry and light violet aromas, the mineral component more expressive. The palate is medium-bodied with crunchy black fruit on the entry,…