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Vingt-Vingt Vins: Bordeaux 2020 (May 2021)

The 2020 Les Carmes Haut-Brion was picked at 38hl/ha and matured in 80% new oak, 11% foudres and the remainder in clay amphorae. It has an intense bouquet of blackberry and wild strawberry, plus some light torrefactory scents, undergrowth and black pepper, all delineated and focused. The palate is medium-bodied with beautifully defined black fruit…

On the Tuscan Coast: New Releases (Oct 2015)

The 2012 Sassicaia is dark and immediate, with gorgeous up-front richness, density and power. Black cherry jam, cloves and new leather are some of the many signatures that take shape in the glass. The 2012 is an unusually deep, concentrated Sassicaia that is going to need time in bottle to develop the full breadth of…

Tuscany New Releases: Maremma, Montepulciano & More (Apr 2018)

The 2014 Sassicaia is polished and expressive for the year. But it is also quite a bit darker and more concentrated than when it was a young wine. That search for a level of depth in aging that the vintage did not provide on its own also concentrated the tannins, which are a bit out…

Chianti Classico: More Than Meets The Eye (Sep 2020)

Last year I wrote that the 2017 Tignanello would drink well early. Unless that happens within the next two years or so, that will not turn out to be the case. Right after bottling, the 2017 was so generous, but since then it has really gone into a shell. That won’t be an issue over…

Chianti Classico: The Stellar 2015s and Surprising 2014s (Jan 2018)

The highlight in this range, the exquisite 2014 Tignanello is all about persistence and understated class. The aromatics alone are captivating. Sculpted, finely delineated flavors add to the wine’s vivid personality. Because of the challenges posed by the growing season, the blend leans more heavily toward Cabernet Sauvignon than is typically the case. Above all…

Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Talbot has a pastille-like purity on the nose: black cherries, raspberry, brown spices and a touch of leather. The palate is medium-bodied with a fleshy opening, fine acidity and a bit chewy with a slightly heady, alcoholic finish that you would equate to a warmer growing season. Maybe trying too hard? It feels…