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Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a blend of 60% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot and 10% cabernet franc) Inky purple. Moderately intense aromas of redcurrant, coffee and cocoa lifted by a floral quality. Chewy on entry, with good dense mid-palate fruit of excellent concentration, but pronounced acidity gives the red berry flavors an almost tart quality. The persistent finish features saline…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Langoa-Barton has a surprisingly high toned bouquet with blue and black fruit, a bit of glycerine here, almost New World! The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, slightly lower acidity than one would expect, touches of blue fruit translated from the nose with a sweet and playful, if not profound finish. This is…

The 2014 White Burgundies: What’s Not To Like? (Sep 2016)

Pale straw-yellow. Very reticent scents of peach, pear and spearmint are less forthcoming than those of the Chevalier-Montrachet bottlings. Fat, saline and slightly disjointed in the early going; in a very rich but adamantly dry style. Shows full ripeness supported by penetrating acidity but this infant is not yet expressive or particularly complex. Strong minerality…

2008 Bordeaux: A Day In A Life (Feb 2018)

The 2008 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande has an expressive, open bouquet that is more forward than I would have expected (indeed, there was more degradation on the rim than you would expect.) The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red berry fruit laced with cedar and sea salt. I like the harmony and the fleshiness imparted…

The 2008 Clarets (Jul 2011)

Deep red. Lively aromas of cherry, redcurrant, flowers, chocolate and tobacco. Intensely flavored, suave and sweet, with ripe acidity framing the flavors of bitter cherry, licorice and loam. Finishes with broad, building tannins and lingering smoky oak. This vibrant Pichon Lalande is built to age.

Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 1921-2016 (Oct 2017)

Super-ripe black cherry, plum, smoke, licorice make a strong opening statement in the 2008 Pichon Lalande. The late harvest that year yielded a decidedly super-ripe, exotic Pichon Lalande with captivating inner sweetness and gorgeous textural finesse. Naturally, the 2008 is young. Very young. Even so, it is stunning. Readers looking for an under-the-radar vintage to…