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Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Les Forts de Latour puts the Carruades de Lafite in the shade with its fabulous and disarmingly pure black fruit laced with tobacco and smoke. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a fine bead of acidity and an unerring and inspiring sense of symmetry towards the finish. This is a Deuxième Vin…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Deep red. Sweet red cherry, cassis, cedar and graphite on the showy nose. Sweet and chewy in the mouth, with red fruit liqueur and Oriental spice elements carrying through on the tactile, long finish. Much better than the Pauillac, which is the estate’s third wine.

Ten Years On: Burgundy 2013 (Oct 2023)

The 2013 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Garenne 1er Cru has a delineated and vibrant bouquet with perfumed linden, orange zest and lychee scents. The palate is well balanced with fine acidity, fresh on the entry with decent weight and a vivid grapefruit and lychee-tinged finish. This is a very capable Puligny that is worth seeking…

The 2014 & 2013 White Burgundies (Sep 2015)

Straw-yellow. Peach, apple, pear and clove on the nose; cooler than the Meursault cuvées. Juicy and intense, offering sharply delineated, mineral-driven orchard fruit flavors. This wiry high-altitude wine is a bit austere on the back end.

Northern Rhône: Solid ’14 Reds and Outstanding ’15 Whites (Jul 2017)

Light bright gold. Intense, mineral-accented white peach, pear liqueur, iodine and honey qualities on the nose; a suave floral topnote gains strength with aeration. Chewy, concentrated and focused on the palate, offering smoke-accented pear skin, peach pit and marzipan flavors that show excellent clarity and depth. The honey nuance comes back on the impressively persistent…

Spain’s New Releases, Part 2: Triumphs and Travails (May 2017)

Deep ruby. Sexy aromas of blackberry, cherry, pipe tobacco and Indian spices acquire an intense floral nuance in the glass. Fleshy dark fruit and rose pastille flavors open up steadily with air and show impressive energy, and a mineral note adds lift. Clings impressively on the subtly tannic finish, where the floral and spice notes…