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A Century of…Sixes: 1846-2016

The 1996 Yquem is a vintage I have not tasted for a wee while, and it has not previously appeared in Vinous’ expansive database. I tasted two bottles. The first, opened in New York, paled against the 2006 Yquem opened alongside. A curious showing. The second, opened a few weeks later, is much better. This…

Champagne: The 2018 Summer Preview (Jul 2018)

Powerful and explosive in the glass, the 2006 Extra-Brut Millesime Grand Cru brings together the natural ripeness of the year with tons of supporting structure. Readers will have to be patient with the 2006, as it is likely to require a number of years to fully come together. Today, it is dense, tightly wound and…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Pernand-Vergelesses Ile de Vergelesses 1er Cru Blanc has a perfumed bouquet with scents of yellow plum, jasmine and a hint of lavender. The palate is well balanced, quite primal and grapey and is missing some mineralité towards the finish and as such, I suspect this will be suited for early consumption.

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Pernand-Vergelesses Ile de Vergelesses 1er Cru Blanc has a delightful nose of yellow flower and lemon peel that gently unfolds in the glass. The palate is well balanced with fine acidity, although I find it missing a little tension and edge toward the finish. Hopefully it will gain this during the remainder of…

2015 Brunello: The Vintage We Have Been Waiting For? (Apr 2020)

The 2017 Poggio di Sotto Rosso di Montalcino will need some time to fully open up. The nose is reticent, requiring quite a bit of coaxing, before a bouquet of fresh sweet strawberry, cherry, Tuscan spice box, dusty florals and hints of mint lift from the glass. On the palate, soft textures flood the senses,…

2017 Barolo: Here We Go Again… (Feb 2021)

The 2017 Barolo Margheria is a compelling, multi-faceted Barolo loaded with personality. Sage, mint, lavender, spice, iron and red/purplish berry fruit grace this firm, classically built Barolo. This translucent, taut Barolo has so much to offer, but it also needs time to soften. Readers will find a terrific example of Margheria.