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An Exploration of Time: Gruaud Larose 1831-2018 (Mar 2024)

The 2005 Gruaud Larose was tasted from two bottles at the estate as the first was corked. The second offers intense black fruit with juniper and cedar notes, but something prevents it from blossoming, like the 1982, for example. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit. It’s a broad-shouldered Gruaud with a firm grip,…

Best New Wines from the Central Loire (May 2010)

Vivid gold. An exotically perfumed bouquet displays pear nectar, orange pith, honey and marzipan. Fleshy, palate-coating pit fruit flavors are complemented by anise, truffle and honey, with a stony mineral underpinning. The finish is broad, smooth and sweet, leaving exotic mango and candied orange notes behind. Showing very good complexity now but possesses the structure…

Roederer Cristal Full Circle: 1993-2015 (Dec 2023)

The 2005 Cristal is another impressive wine in this vertical, but in this case, it is its performance in a very hard year that impresses most. There’s real depth, density and textural resonance here. Apple tart, chamomile, dried flowers, pear and brioche linger. “We had some rot issues, mainly in Pinot Noir, so we focused…

A Century – Not Out: Talbot 1919-2010 (Oct 2019)

The 1986 Talbot has a strong reputation although my solitary encounter back in 2001 seems contrary. Fortunately this bottle upholds this as being one of the finest Talbots in recent years, one in which the château recorded a record in terms of quantity. It has a beautiful, quite beguiling, classically styled bouquet with wild strawberry,…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full red-ruby. Aromas of redcurrant, tobacco, spices and earth, with a slight roasted aspect. Sweet, fat and warm with alcohol; loaded with fruit but could use a bit more definition. Finishes with some free-floating acidity.

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Saturated ruby-red, even darker than the ’96. Currant, raspberry, tobacco and cedary oak on the nose. Full and sweet in the middle palate, with strong, lively flavors. Here the toothcoating tannins seem slightly less well integrated today but they are ripe and even. Really creamy in the mouth, but with the structure to age.