Archives: Product Reviews

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Best New Releases from California (Jan 2005)

(with 2% grenache and 2% viognier) Deep ruby-red. Black fruits, orange peel, Tellicherry pepper, sandalwood incense and black walnut on the highly complex nose. Quite youthful, even a bit clenched, in the mouth, with extremely intense, juicy, peppery fruit and a lovely coolness that promises a long evolution in bottle. Compared to the lush grenache…

Focus on California’s Central Coast (Sep 2006)

Saturated, bright ruby-red. Slightly high-toned, ineffably complex nose combines red and black fruits, smoked bacon, herbs, minerals, licorice, violet and gingerbread-is this syrah or what? Wonderfully concentrated and bright, showing an almost confectionery sweetness to its primary black fruit, brown spice and fruitcake flavors. The wine’s great verve and intensity, along with its extraordinary length,…

Focus on the Central Coast (Nov 2010)

(includes 3.5% viognier) Inky violet. Captivating, varietally expressive nose melds cassis, boysenberry, olive tapenade, cracked pepper, licorice and Indian spices. Suave, velvety and deeply concentrated, with restrained sweetness for a wine with this much power and thrust. Firm acids give the lush dark fruit and floral flavors excellent focus. Finishes chewy, suave and very long,…

Focus on the Central Coast (Nov 2008)

(includes 5% grenache and 2% viognier; 15.8% alcohol) Opaque ruby color. Powerful, impressively concentrated black raspberry and boysenberry aromas are complicated by smoky minerals, candied licorice, incense and cured tobacco. Pliant dark berry flavors stain the palate and are energized by zesty minerals. A big, sweet palate-stainer that somehow manages to be graceful as well….

Masseto Retrospective at the Country Music Hall of Fame (Jan 2020)

The 2001 Masseto is one of the all-time great wines here. Vertical and soaring in its intensity, the 2001 occupies all dimensions, especially texturally, where it is so rich, so heady and so compelling. Next to other wines, or other vintages, the 2001 just has more of everything. I imagine well-stored bottles will drink well…

An Exploration of Time: Gruaud Larose 1831-2018 (Mar 2024)

The 2005 Gruaud Larose was tasted from two bottles at the estate as the first was corked. The second offers intense black fruit with juniper and cedar notes, but something prevents it from blossoming, like the 1982, for example. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit. It’s a broad-shouldered Gruaud with a firm grip,…