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Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 1988 Yquem is a vintage that I have drunk with enormous pleasure on numerous occasions. This last bottle was the perfect ending to a horizontal of 1988 Roumier wines at Noizé. It was a late harvest that lasted until All Saints Day (1 November). A total of 6 tries were necessary through the vineyard,…

Vinous Table: Zoldering, Amsterdam, Netherlands (Feb 2024)

The 1988 Yquem is similar to the bottle I tasted two years earlier, one of my favorite vintages from that decade. Orange pith, quince, wax resin, and mandarin blossom on the nose, yet there is more control and focus than in other warmer vintages. The palate is underpinned by a wonderful frisson of acidity that…

Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 1991 Yquem is a vintage that I have not tasted for some 14 years. Several parcels survived the frost on 21 April that enabled an Yquem to be made from three tries through the vineyard. Deep in colour, it has a tangy marmalade and adhesive scented bouquet that oddly reminds me of the 1991…

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 1984 Yquem is one of the weakest wines of the decade from the estate. As I found from the solitary half-bottle that I drank some years back, the nose is very simple with dried honey and resinous scents, but there’s little to really satiate the senses. The palate is bitter on the entry with…

The 2013 Red Burgundies: Fascinating and Challenging (Mar 2016)

Healthy medium red. Closed nose hints at dark berries, licorice and rocks, along with a subtle note of game. Less perfumed in the mouth than the 2014 version but shows good peppery energy and a fairly silky texture to its purple fruit flavors. Finishes with very good length and lift and no dryness. This grew…

The 2013 & 2012 Red Burgundies (Apr 2015)

A much more finessed, silky side of Gevrey emerges from the 2013 Gevrey-Chambertin Cazetiers. Ethereal yet wonderfully pliant on the palate, the 2013 is endowed with magnificent depth. As is typically the case with superb Cazetiers, Bruno Clair’s 2013 is all about understatement and finesse, two signatures of this great Gevrey site.