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2020 Bordeaux En Primeur: Almost Back to Normal (Jun 2021)

The 2020 Léoville-Barton marries the richness of the vintage with the classically restrained style that is so typical of Léoville-Barton. Graphite, licorice and dark spice are all laced throughout a core of inky dark fruit. The 2020 is powerful and linear, with tons of depth lying in reserve, just waiting to emerge. I won't be…

Thrice Is Nice: Bordeaux 2020 in Bottle (Feb 2023)

In some ways, the 2020 Léoville Barton has become more serious than when I encountered it from barrel. It’s lost its puppy fat and delivers quite intense blackberry, blueberry and incense aromas, a little oak to be assimilated yet still very focused. The palate is medium-bodied with a “coolness” on the entry, taut yet deep…

Vingt-Vingt Vins: Bordeaux 2020 (May 2021)

The 2020 Léoville Barton was picked September 15–16 and matured in 70% new oak. It is one of the best vintages that I have encountered in barrel. Wow! This shoots from the glass with beautifully defined black fruit, mineral-rich aromas, pixelated with laser-like focus. The palate is medium-bodied with chiseled tannins, a perfect line of…

Never a Dull Vintage in the Northern Rhône (Dec 2022)

Saturated magenta. Powerful, mineral-driven red and blue fruit, candied violet, olive and exotic spice scents show fine definition and lift. Densely packed and energetic on the palate, offering intense, spice-accented bitter cherry, Chambord and blueberry flavors that open up with air. The blue fruit and floral notes drive an impressively long, finely detailed finish that’s…

Chianti Classico & Neighbors: Looking at the 2020s and 2019s (Jul 2022)

The 2019 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigneto Bellavista soars out of the glass with breathtaking intensity in all of its dimensions. The aromatics alone are striking, but that’s just the beginning. Rich and sumptuous on the palate, the 2019 is the most refined Bellavista I have ever tasted, and I have tasted them all. A…

Vinous Table: The Ledbury, London, UK (Mar 2023)

The 1991 Richebourg Grand Cru is better than the example tasted three years ago. Wonderful delineation on the nose; there are blackberry and earthy notes, still those hints of meat juice, perhaps more transparency than other bottles. The palate is medium-bodied and framed by filigree tannins, with sour cherry hints commingling with black truffle and…