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2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Bright, deep ruby-red. Ripe, deep aromas of currant, flowers, coconut and mint. Firm and tight, with excellent cut and precision; brisk flavors of bitter cherry, berry skin and minerals. A slightly dry-edged midweight that’s best today on the long, slow-building finish. Shows an intriguing late note of faded rose.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

Winemaker Eric Kohler recalled the 1999 Lafite-Rothschild as being born in a sad summer. Personally, I have liked this First Growth since I first tasted it in barrel. Now 20 years old, it is beginning to show a little bricking on the rim. The bouquet is clean and detailed, with black currant, raspberry, melted tar…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru has a perfumed nose, perhaps a little worked in the winery, but the fruit is pure and the new oak nicely integrated. Opulent, yet controlled. The palate is medium-bodied with a little hardness to the tannins, quite a worked mixture of red and black fruit that segues into…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru has an intense bouquet of blueberry, cassis and iodine aromas, almost Chambolle-like in style. The medium-bodied palate delivers supple tannins and a fine bead of acidity. Citrus-fresh with orange peel and marmalade notes toward the persistent finish. Excellent.

Through the Other Side: Burgundy 2016 in Bottle (Oct 2019)

The 2016 Volnay Taillepieds 1er Cru has a clean, pure and transparent bouquet with perfumed, floral red berry fruit with more sous-bois character evident compared to its peers. The palate is medium-bodied with a crunchy red fruit note on the entry, quite grippy in the mouth. I find the finish a little bony and requiring…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(vinified entirely with whole clusters and aged in 35% new oak; the average vine age here is 65 years and the soil features gravel on limestone): Bright medium-deep red. Deeply pitched, fruit-driven aromas of black raspberry and dark cherry, plus a hint of smoky minerality. Wonderfully plush yet lively, displaying more volume and depth than…