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The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Good full red-ruby. Very sexy aromas and flavors of black raspberry, blackberry, roasted coffee, violet and licorice. Lush, silky and highly concentrated, with an utterly seamless texture to the middle palate. Wonderfully, ripe, broad, merlot-based wine; solid as a rock but utterly pliant. Finishes with captivating lingering sweetness, the broad tannins completely buffered by the…

Memories Elide: Vieux Château Certan 1923-2020 (Jul 2024)

The 2006 Vieux Château Certan was picked from September 12 after ten days of clement weather when two deluges, 60mm then 40mm, fell within 24 hours after the Merlot had been picked. The dilemma was whether to expedite the picking of the Cabernets, though Alexandre Thienpont decided to risk it and waited. Consequently, he lost…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Petrus is surprisingly backward on the nose compared directly with the 2009 Le Pin, demanding a lot of coaxing. Initially broody, it then begins to flourish with wild strawberry, cranberry, crushed stone and black truffle, all beautifully defined but very succinct. The palate is medium-bodied with silky tannins lending an almost cashmere texture….

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Dark ruby. Ripe red cherry, cocoa, exotic herbs, soy sauce, sweet spices and a hint of licorice on the showy, opulent nose. At once fat and juicy, with firm-edged dark berry flavors contributing very good grip and backbone to softer, fleshier plum, black cherry, chocolate syrup and sexy Oriental spice flavors. Finishes juicy, minty and…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(100% merlot; 14.2% alcohol; 3.8 pH; 40 ha/hl; a 65% selection; 50% new oak) Fully saturated ruby-red. Mindblowingly intense, utterly hedonistic nose redolent of sexy, superripe blueberry and blackcurrant complicated by sweet Oriental spices, cocoa and coffee. Then creamy-smooth and downright voluptuous, with superconcentrated blackberry, blueberry and plum flavors complemented by delicate smoke and flint…

The 2019 Napa Valley Cabernets: A Deep Dive (Jan 2022)

The 2018 Harlan Estate is deep, plush and full of potential. But potential is the key word here, as the 2018 is also very reticent today. Its depth, power and pedigree are all obviously apparent. It is an atypical wine for Napa, as the acids, tannin and structure are all pretty prominent. Hints of black…