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Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a 63/37 blend of cabernet sauvignon and merlot; 13.5% alcohol; IPT 70) Medium-deep ruby. The delicately scented nose is classic Pauillac: blackcurrant, violet, cedar and graphite. Enters smooth and seamless, with lively acids nicely lifting the blackberry, plum and smoky mineral flavors. Refined and restrained Pauillac, finishing sleek and long, with very smooth tannins and…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Duhart-Milon is recalcitrant on the nose, refusing to give much away in terms of aromas. Loamy, peaty scents emerge with time amongst the black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannin, fresh in the mouth with good salinity. There is something estuarine about this Pauillac that lends it personality and its grip…

2004 and 2003 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2006)

Dark red color. Intensely spicy and rich on the nose, with vibrant aromas of kirsch, raspberry, wild strawberry, anise and fresh rose. Amazingly concentrated, juicy and pure in the mouth, with compelling, energetic flavors of dark raspberry, cherry preserves, poached rhubarb and rose pastille. The minerally finish, which features completely buffered tannins, builds inexorably and…

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

The 1989 La Mission Haut-Brion can surpass even Haut-Brion these days, but on this occasion, juxtaposed against its sibling, it must accept a silver medal. That’s not to infer it is nothing less than a brilliant Pessac. Taking time to open, it has an elevated bouquet with blackberry, wild strawberry, white pepper and a hint…

Mission Complete: La Mission Haut-Brion 1928–2011 (Sep 2021)

The 1989 La Mission Haut-Brion is hands-down the greatest of this era, and if one takes consistency into account, it is slipping past the 1989 Haut-Brion. Deep in color with only faint bricking on the rim, it has a breathtaking bouquet of intense blackberry, black truffle, black olive and incense. It is the precision that…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Medium red with some amber at the rim. Knockout nose combines tobacco, warm stones, minerals, menthol and burning woodsmoke. Wonderfully dense, silky and sweet, but there superb underlying acidity and tannic structure to buttress the wine flesh. Haut-Brion is widely considered to be the wine of the vintage, but in my experience La Mission is…