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A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2003 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande was showing well until around five years ago, but I wonder, based on this ex-cellar bottle, tasted blind at the château, if it is on a slippery slope? Glossy on the nose, obviously very ripe with a little more VA than previous examples, I just find it monotonous compared…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2003 Pichon-Lalande was showing well until around five years ago, but I wonder, based on this ex-cellar bottle, tasted blind at the château, if it is on a slippery slope? Glossy on the nose, obviously very ripe with a little more VA than previous examples. I just find it monotonous compared to the wondrous…

The Best New Wines from Spain, Part 1 (Jul 2008)

Inky purple. Alluring bouquet of blackberry and blueberry preserves, cherry-cola and vanillin oak spices. Broad, fleshy and deep, with sweet flavors of dark berries, floral pastille and vanilla beans. The rich fruit nicely absorbs the oak element on the long, velvety finish. Leaves a wide swath of creamy dark fruits and licorice in its wake….

The Best New Wines from Spain, Part 1 (Jul 2007)

Deep ruby. Complex, heady bouquet of kirsch, candied plum, cured tobacco, licorice, dried rose and cedar. Pungent herbal notes build with aeration and repeat on the palate, adding complexity to the deep, ripe cherry and dark berry liqueur flavors. Remarkably elegant wine with precise cherry/berry flavors and a slow-mounting mocha quality on the long, sappy…

A Janus with Soul: Figeac 1943–2016 (Dec 2021)

The 2000 Figeac is similar to the bottle tasted at the château just three months earlier. Still a tad rustic on the nose with singed leather and earthenware infusing the red berry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied, quite Left Bank in style, a little rough in texture with a slightly herbaceous finish. Maybe marginally better…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Full ruby-red. Wild, expressive aromas of black raspberry, cedar, lead pencil, mocha, coffee and animal fur. Fat, silky and lush yet dry; a thick, round Figeac with impressive volume. Even the merlot in 2000 showed solid structure. Like the 2001, this shows an intriguing burnt note. Finishes with big but suave tannins and lingering notes…