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Jekyll and Hyde: 2017 Brunello di Montalcino and 2016 Riservas (Dec 2021)

The 2016 Brunello di Montalcino is a dark stallion of a wine that showcases both the depth and radiance of the vintage. At first, its bouquet is dark and earthy, yet quickly blossoms into an enthralling mix of musky red currants, wild peppery herbs, dusty rose and worn leather. While satiny in feel, it’s also…

Barbaresco 2016 & 2017 – A Tale of Two Vintages (Nov 2019)

Gaja’s 2016 Barbaresco is positively stellar. A wine of poise and grace, the 2016 has so much to offer. Expressive spice and floral notes open up first, but what really stands out is the wine’s nuance and delineation. There is a sense of translucency to the 2016 that is impossible to miss. Sweet red cherry,…

2019 Bordeaux from Bottle: The Two Towers (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Berliquet opens with an attractive burst of dark red fruit, exotic spice and flowers. There is good freshness and energy, but the rustic quality of the tannin is impossible to escape. Berliquet remains a work in progress. I suspect the vineyard will require quite a bit of attention in the coming years. Tasted…

Bordeaux 2019: The Southwold Tasting (Feb 2023)

The 2019 Berliquet has a delineated and focused bouquet with attractive blackberry, wild strawberry and violet scents, the new oak is neatly assimilated. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, fine acidity, perhaps without quite the charm of the aromatics, cohesive with a silky smooth finish. Stylish, but it needs more complexity. Tasted blind at…

Omne Trium Perfectum: Bordeaux 2019s in Bottle (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Berliquet has a refined bouquet of lifted dried iris petal scents mingling with blackberry and wild strawberry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with lithe tannins and fleshy red berry fruit laced with tobacco and Chinese five-spice, and very well proportioned and detailed on the finish. Sophisticated. Tasted twice.

Stand and Deliver: 2001 Sauternes (Sep 2021)

The 2001 Guiraud sports a fragrant but not intense nose, featuring the lanolin and apricot notes that I observed previously; touches of grilled walnut surface with time. The lightly spiced palate is very well balanced with a honeyed opening and ginger-infused quince and marmalade flavors. It builds nicely on the finish without fully letting rip….