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1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Saturated ruby-red color. Lively aromas of black raspberry, black plum and smoky, spicy oak. Supple and very intensely flavored; not as fleshy or fat as the ’95 but seamless. Again, has plenty of firming acidity. Finishes with tongue-dusting tannins and persistent spicy flavor. From a just-racked barrel: More precise nose hints at violet. Lush and…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Saturated ruby-red. Expressive, floral aromas of black raspberry, black cherry, toffee, licorice and chocolate; suggests an almost roasted ripeness. Chocolatey and very dense in the mouth; rather tightly wrapped today but still much broader than the ’97. Finishes very long, with substantial tongue-coating tannins. Powerful and impressive for the vintage.

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2005)

Good red-ruby. Deep, aromatic, highly complex nose combines raspberry, espresso, tree bark, leather, graphite, cedar, coconut and exotic woodsmoke. Lush, sweet and pure, with very ripe flavors of currant, dark chocolate and graphite, nicely framed by perfectly integrated acidity. Finishes broad and suave; the tannins here make those of the young 2004 seem a bit…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2002 Cos d’Estournel is quite deep in colour with only faint bricking on the rim. The nose evokes an era when I feel that the winemaking team back then pushed the concentration to the maximum. So we have black plum, a touch of prune mixed with marmalade, scents redolent of a richer growing season,…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2005)

Good deep ruby-red. Inky aromas of currant, black cherry, minerals and smoky oak. Tightly wound but not at all hard. The flavors of black fruits, minerals and graphite are enlivened by bright acidity (3.56 grams). A very classy wine with sneaky depth of flavor, in a distinctly cooler style than the 2003 but built to…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2002 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande has a relatively simple nose compared to recent vintages with scents of blackberry, raspberry coulis, soy and leather. Still quite youthful. The palate is medium-bodied, a bit dry and austere with grainy tannins, leather and tobacco mixed with white pepper, though it lacks a bit of freshness on the…