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1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Opaque ruby. Complex aromas of black cherry, black raspberry, blueberry, minerals, clove and caramel. Lush and oaky, but less forthcoming today than the Virginie. Can’t match the ’98 Valandraud for depth of flavor or sweetness, but finishes with lovely, lush tannins. A hint of fresh herbs on the aftertaste.

Daniel Thomases on Tuscany (Jul 2000)

Deep, dark ruby. Expansive, powerful aromas of rosemary and sage and sweet tar from the toasting of the barrels. Smooth and balanced on the palate, with classic Bordeaux-like flavors of cassis, minerals and graphite. Volume swelled by the alcoholic warmth. Finishes with good intensity. Poised and classy.

Ornellaia: A Major Retrospective 1985-2006 (Dec 2009)

The 1997 Ornellaia (magnum) is a big, fat wine endowed with tons of fruit. Mocha, coffee beans and ripe, dark fruit emerge from the glass on a rich, opulent frame. The structural elements are easy to overlook, as the tannins are so juicy and ripe, and the fruit is incredibly intense. Simply put, everything is…

Three Vertical Tastings (Sep 2004)

Bright, youthful red-ruby. Very ripe, complex aromas of black fruits, violet, exotic spices, licorice and humus. Then hugely full and sweet in the mouth, but with a faint greenness. Finishes with big, slightly rustic tannins-less fine-grained than usual for this estate. A classic wine from a hot year in which the ripening came in a…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Excellent deep ruby color. Primary aromas of dark berries, cherry, shoe polish and smoky oak. Supple, rich and textured, but not as pliant or layered as the ’97 due to slightly edgy acids. Finishes with well-distributed, dusty tannins that will require a few years to soften.

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Superb, saturated dark ruby color. Knockout aromas of black raspberry, smoked duck and suave, smoky oak. Thick, sweet and velvety in the mouth; the fruit explodes with aeration, saturating those hard-to-reach places in the mouth. Really fabulous sweetness. A slightly roasted note suggests great ripeness (though I recall Thunevin telling me two years ago that…