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2014 Roederer Cristal (Feb 2022)

The 2014 Cristal is another in a long line of gorgeous wines from Roederer and long-time Chef de Caves Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon. A dazzling, vibrant Champagne, the 2014 impresses with a stunning combination of fruit density and linear energy that brings to mind a hypothetical blend of 2012 and 2008. At times, the bubbles feel totally…

Champagne: The Season’s New Releases (Nov 2014)

The 2004 Dom Ruinart is just as brilliant and viscerally thrilling as it has always been. If anything, the 2004 has shut down considerably over the last six months. Tightly coiled and exceptionally beautiful, the 2004 boasts fabulous intensity, class and pedigree. The flavors are vibrant, chiseled and crystalline in their precision. Time in bottle…

Vintage Champagne (Dec 2014)

Vivid yellow. Pungent, heady aromas of ripe pear, orange pith, brioche and toasty lees, with a stony nuance adding lift and urgency. Smooth and expansive on the palate, offering intense citrus and orchard fruit flavors that pick up minerality and smokiness with air. Finishes sappy, penetrating and very long, with slow-building sweetness and a note…

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

With vivid memories of the outstanding 1990 in my head, I approached my maiden 1989 Chasse-Spleen with lofty expectations. With faint aging on the rim, the 1989 shares the 1990’s melted quality on the nose, scents of red fruit commingling with mocha and brown spices, a whiff of Montecristo later. The palate is medium-bodied with…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Deep red. Expressive aromas of redcurrant and tobacco. Juicy, pure, intensely flavored and sharply focused; has a penetrating minerality that carries through to the firmly tannic finish. Should develop quite slowly.

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Deep ruby-red. Black fruits, licorice, minerals, tobacco and iron on the complex nose. The wine’s sweetness almost comes as a shock, but the creamy blueberry and blackberry fruit flavors are given lift and clarity by firm acidity and solid underlying minerality. Finishes with sweet tannins and subtle persistence. An unusually accessible young Forts de Latour,…