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Memories Elide: Vieux Château Certan 1923-2020 (Jul 2024)

The 2006 Vieux Château Certan was picked from September 12 after ten days of clement weather when two deluges, 60mm then 40mm, fell within 24 hours after the Merlot had been picked. The dilemma was whether to expedite the picking of the Cabernets, though Alexandre Thienpont decided to risk it and waited. Consequently, he lost…

2017 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: A Day’s Work (Jul 2020)

The 2017 Corton Grand Cru is floral, gracious and so inviting. White pepper, mint and pine perk up the red cherry and cranberry fruit flavors nicely. In 2017, the Corton is decidedly ethereal and pointed, with terrific energy and tons of class. It will be interesting to see how it develops, as there is a…

Complex, Not Complicated: 2017 DRC in Bottle (Feb 2020)

The 2017 Corton Grand Cru was cropped at 33hl/ha, picked on September 4 and bottled on January 23, 2019. The heavenly bouquet, probably one of the finest I have encountered from this property since its inception in 2009, features brambly red fruit, discreet touches of hawthorn and succinct use of oak. Curiously, there is something…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Saturated dark red. Superripe, slightly high-toned aromas of candied black raspberry and licorice; as at so many other cellars, the first 2015 came across as distinctly roasted following the 2016s. Plush, sweet and superripe–in fact almost porty–with black cherry and bitter chocolate flavors accented by spices. Finishes with big, ripe but somewhat unrefined tannins and…

Brunello di Montalcino 2007: A Worthy Successor to 2006 (Apr 2012)

The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva comes across as a bit reticent. It reveals lovely detail and nuance, but without the firmness of many other young vintages. Today the 2006 is quite accessible. I will be surprised if it doesn’t start shutting down at some point. Regardless, the 2006 appears to be built more on…

Santa Cruz Mountains: Wines of Breathtaking Pedigree (Sep 2020)

The 2008 Monte Bello is in a gorgeous spot right now, as the aromatics are just starting to show the complex nuances that only develop in bottle. Worn-in leather, licorice, scorched earth, savory herbs and chocolate meld into a core of intense dark fruit. Slightly angular contours hint at a bit of rusticity. My impression…