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2009 Red Burgundies (Mar 2012)

Good medium red. Superripe aromas of cherry, spices, leather, earth and resiny oak, along with a saline nuance. Rich, broad and powerful; classically dry but a bit warm with alcohol (14.5%!). Just this side of heavy but there’s also good underlying energy here. I’d forget this very large-scaled but youthfully disjointed Clos Vougeot for at…

2007 and 2006 Red Burgundies (Mar 2009)

Full, dark red. Some very ripe notes to the aromas of plum, blackberry and violet. Moderately sweet and penetrating, with very good energy and underlying spine to its currant and floral flavors. A bit youthfully imploded but finishes with solid power, serious tannins and enticing lingering perfume. This classy, fine-grained but still-tight wine calls for…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Medium ruby. Perfumed, subtle aromas of dark berries, spices, cedar and lead pencil; unusually sophisticated for a second wine. Supple, dense and suave, with lovely layered texture and restrained sweetness. Very densely packed and serious for Pavillon Rouge, but with no loss of finesse. Finishes with chewy, ripe tannins and excellent length.

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2000 Pavillon Rouge de Château Margaux is actually a vintage that I have never tasted before. For me, this is a little more mature than the 2001, with black plum, loam and pressed flower scents of pastille-like purity. Like the 2001, this has certainly held up well. The palate is medium-bodied, fuller and more…

1996 Champagne – For The Ages (Oct 2014)

One of the more accessible wines of the year today, the 1996 Dom Pérignon impresses for its exceptional balance and class. Lemon peel, white flowers and mint are laced together in the glass. The 1996 is in a terrific place today where it can be enjoyed or cellared for a number of years.

New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2004)

Very pale color. Wonderfully complex, musky aromas of minerals, ginger, lemon, earth, mushroom, smoke and brioche; with aeration, this showed sweaty saline and chicken broth notes that reminded me of Le Montrachet, as well as a captivating topnote of fresh rose petal. Fat, ripe and mouthfilling without being at all heavy. Loaded with flavor and…