Archives: Product Reviews

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The Most and Least Important of Things: Petrus 1897–2011 (Jul 2020)

The 1981 Petrus is a vintage that I had not tasted before. Unfortunately there is just a touch of TCA on the nose. The palate showed no signs of cork taint but it feels light and rather hollow with an enervated, green finish. TCA notwithstanding, this comes across as a substandard Petrus. Tasted at the…

Cellar Favorite: 1981 Petrus (Oct 2023)

Given my rather desultory score for the 1981 Petrus, a bottle that had a tincture of TCA, I was able to order a pristine bottle in London that had been acquired directly from the château, thereby giving me a chance to re-evaluate. The 1981 has an initial burst of loveliness on the nose, as if…

Digging up a Languedoc Treasure: Mas de Daumas Gassac 1978-2022 (Jul 2024)

Forest floor, tomato leaf and farmyard subtleties are all framed in the rustic 1994 Rouge, which has past its prime. Dried figs further indicate an advanced evolutionary state. On the palate, the 1994 bundles soft tannins, bright acidity and faded fruit before culminating in a finish of moderate length.

Archive Away: Mature Burgundies 1919-2019 (Jun 2024)

The 1999 Vosne-Romanée Les Brûlées 1er Cru is blessed with a heavenly bouquet, pure red fruit and astonishing mineralité in the context of the growing season. Graphite hints emerge with time. The palate is fresh and taut. It’s linear at first, finely chiseled with a tender yet long finish. You can tell there was a…

The Vast Bounty of Central Spain (Feb 2021)

Opaque violet. Intensely perfumed, expansive black and blue fruit preserve, potpourri, Moroccan spice and botanical herb scents are complemented by smoky mineral and vanilla flourishes. Sappy, penetrating and deeply concentrated on the palate, offering vibrant, mineral-laced black currant, bitter cherry, chewing tobacco, mocha and floral pastille flavors that deepen and turn sweeter on the back…

2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2019 Haut-Batailley has a very attractive, wonderfully delineated bouquet, with blood orange tincturing the vibrant black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, slightly peppery in style with real depth and longevity on the finish. This is excellent and might well represent the best vintage under “new management.”