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Blind Vision: 2015 Burgundy Red & White (Nov 2018)

The 2015 Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras 1er Cru has a tight, compact bouquet with some oak that needs to be fully subsumed, but there is primal, untamed intensity here. The palate is quite muscular on the entry, almost equidistant in style between Chambolle and Morey, and delivers plenty of substance and grip toward the defined finish….

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(13.55% alcohol; vinified with 53% whole clusters): Bright dark red. Very stony aromas of black raspberry, black pepper and smoky calcaire. Large-scaled, dense, slightly medicinal premier cru with full ripeness but a youthfully clenched quality today. Rather powerful on the back end, finishing with sneaky palate-staining length and fine-grained tannins.

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(30% new oak): Good medium red. Pure, restrained aromas and flavors of black cherry, licorice and minerals. Silky and fine-grained on entry, then juicy and tighter in the middle, showing strong calcaire energy as the mother rock here isn’t much more than a foot below the surface. This rich, firmly tannic wine boasts a long,…

2011 Barolo: The Here and Now (Mar 2015)

In 2011, the Barolo Le Serra benefits from its slightly higher elevation and cooler micro-climate, both of which give the wine an added element of freshness that is needed. Dark red stone fruits, flowers, spices and leather are all supported by the characteristic firm La Serra tannins, but the 2011 has a little more mid-palate…

The 2013 Red Burgundies: Fascinating and Challenging (Mar 2016)

Medium red. High-toned, expressive aromas of redcurrant, red cherry and spices, plus hints of peppery herbs and menthol. Surprisingly supple and sweet in the mouth; in fact, this wine comes across as almost soft after the Petite Chapelle and seems lower in acidity than the vintage would suggest. A saline nuance adds interest to this…

Barolo 2007: Greatness in the Making (Feb 2011)

Voerzio’s 2007 Barolo Cerequio is a wonderful counter to the virile, imposing Brunate. Sweet red fruit, flowers and menthol are woven into a nuanced, textured fabric of notable class and elegance. The Cerequio possesses dazzling inner perfume, silky tannins and phenomenal length. It is a stunning, beautifully articulated Barolo blessed with tons of intensity and…