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In Excelsis: Château Latour 1887 – 2010 (Jul 2018)

The 1973 Latour, gallantly poured from double magnum, displays a curious kidney bean, almost liver-like scent on the nose that is strangely attractive. The palate is medium-bodied, with big-boned tannin, a Latour that lacks grace with a dry, possibly very chaptalized finish, and yet not unattractive. Provenance and size of format are likely to have…

New Releases from Champagne (Dec 2008)

The house’s 1998 La Grande Dame reveals notable clarity and precision. This focused, poised wine emerges from the glass with well-articulated flowers, pears, smoke, crisp apples and minerals in a medium-bodied style. The wine appears to have enough freshness and sheer depth to support another decade or so of aging. La Grand Dame represents a…

New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2008)

Pale yellow with a steady bead. Orange, lemon, apple, smoky minerals and yeast on the nose. Fleshy orchard fruit flavors coat the palate and are energized by dusty minerals and a fresh jasmine quality. An energetic version of this bottling, with good finishing grip and lingering floral qualities. This gained weight with air: I’d hold…

Focus on California’s North Coast (May 2010)

Good deep ruby-red. Sweet, open aromas of ripe plum and currant complemented by chocolatey oak. In a fat, lush style, showing the sweetness of the vintage in spades. Not a particularly gripping wine but one that should give considerable early pleasure. The substantial tannins are dusty and fine.

2009 and 2008 Chateauneuf du Pape (Mar 2011)

Deep ruby. Pungent, spice-accented aromas of red and dark berries, with subtle floral and mineral nuances adding complexity. Sappy, incisive raspberry and cassis flavors show decent concentration and gain smokiness and floral character with air. An elegant, restrained, mineral-driven wine that finishes brisk and with very good, spicy length. This wine has filled in since…

Focus on Tuscany: The 2009s and 2008s (Aug 2011)

The 2007 Biserno blossoms on the palate with layers of plush dark fruit, mocha, espresso and spices. It is a seamless, striking wine endowed with tons of class and finesse. The layers of fruit build impressively towards the explosive, racy finish. The Biserno is absolutely gorgeous in its feminine, refined personality, with floral notes that…