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Past Becomes Now: Lafite-Rothschild 1874-1982 (Apr 2024)

The 1970 Lafite-Rothschild is a vintage I have not encountered for many years, and frankly, I never expected it to perform so well. There’s lovely delineation and vitality on the nose with candied orange peel infusing the pretty and pure red fruit, scents of graphite surfacing with time. There is a wonderful sweet core of…

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Good bright, deep red. Fresh, nuanced nose combines red cherry, tobacco, truffle, smoke and earth. Plump but fresh and intense, with an attractive restrained sweetness and firm underlying structure. This rather sexy and accessible Pomerol spreads out nicely to coat the palate, and finishes suave and lively, with firm tannic spine.

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Red-ruby. Enticing aromas of red fruits, smoked meat and mocha. Plush, ripe and full; this surprisingly accessible wine already offers considerable sex appeal. A very round wine that finishes with ripe tannins and very good length.

2001 and 2000 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2003)

Warm red-ruby color. Kaleidoscopic nose of sappy cherry syrup, game, licorice, animal fur and espresso. Liqueur-like flavor of maraschino cherry firmed by underlying minerality. Huge, mouthcoating back end throws off notes of black cherry, tar, minerals and roasted herbs. A Chateauneuf with extraordinary chewiness, breadth and length. This wine aged in foudre for its first…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Deep red. Initially sauvage aromas of plum, leather, game and earth, with higher-pitched blueberry and blackberry emerging with aeration. Sweet, concentrated and densely packed, with a youthfully medicinal character to the dark fruit flavors. Finishes with firm, dusty tannins. Impressively constituted but seems less pure than it was from barrel the spring after the harvest….

2003 and 2002 Red Burgundies (Mar 2005)

Bright medium red. Very ripe but brooding nose hints at raspberry, spices, underbrush and resiny oak. Quite structured and backward, but already offers complex hints of minerals, licorice and soil. Finishes firmly tannic and long. Closed, uncompromising wine that appears to call for at least five or six years of patience.