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Vintage Retrospective: The 2007 Napa Valley Cabernets (May 2017)

(14.8% alcohol): Fresh red-ruby color. Medicinal kirsch and spices on the nose, plus a suggestion of rose. Wonderfully sweet and seamless but given shape and definition by lovely floral lift and firm acidity. There’s something old school about this beauty, which has lost some of its baby fat while retaining its primary fruit character. Finishes…

Champagne: The 2024 Spring Preview (Mar 2024)

The 1998 Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill Vinothèque is a fabulous choice for readers who want to enjoy a fully mature Champagne. Apricot jam, spice, baked apple tart, honey, passion fruit, orange marmalade and butter are all beautifully amplified. Readers will find a heady, exotic Champagne that dazzles both the intellectual and hedonistic senses. I would…

Passing the Baton: Lynch-Bages 1945-2018 (Jul 2023)

The 1989 Lynch-Bages is arguably the pinnacle of a fecund era for the Pauillac estate. The aromatics bowl you over with their intensity and precision, complex and brimming with personality: black fruit laced with graphite and blood orange. It would shade many a First Growth. The palate is medium-bodied with gorgeous, multi-layered black fruit on…

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

The 1989 Lynch Bages remains a monumental achievement, perhaps the exemplar of an estate completely transcending its status. This bottle is consistent with my previous notes: stunning intensity with a cornucopia of black fruit, iodine, graphite and leather. Perhaps the palate is just a tad softer than the bottle tasted at the property a few…

2007 Bordeaux : Don’t Hate Me Because I’m Overpriced (Jul 2010)

Good bright ruby-red. Rather backward nose hints at cassis, black cherry, shoe polish, graphite, minerals and spices. Sweet, broad and rich, but with enticing fresh minerality giving energy to the rather full-bodied middle palate. The wine’s cassis fruit is complicated by an almost decadent floral element. Finishes perfumed and very long, with wonderfully lush, supple,…

Survive Us All: Latour 1858-2018 (Feb 2024)

Surprisingly, the 2007 Latour has a bolder and more outgoing bouquet than other vintages from this era, adorned with plush blackberry, blueberry and boysenberry fruit, slightly more floral than its peers. There’s a fine definition here. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, very well balanced, although not the most complex in the line-up. It…