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Champagne: The 2024 Spring Preview (Mar 2024)

Once again, the 2012 Dom Pérignon is stellar. It’s a potent, tightly-wound Champagne. That should serve it well in the future, but today, the 2012 is not terribly expressive. Time in the glass brings out striking aromatic top notes and plenty of energy to match. Low yields, down 30-40%, produced a wild, dynamic Champagne endowed…

Champagne: 2021 New Releases (Nov 2021)

The 2012 Dom Pérignon is a dense, powerful wine. I am almost shocked by its vinous intensity and raw, unbridled power. The 2012 reminds me of the 2003, but with more finesse and not quite as pushed. Mildew, rain and frost were challenges and resulted in low yields, something that was further compounded by warm,…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Vosne-Romanée Village, which comes in at 14.4% alcohol this year, does feel a little smudged on the nose compared to other crus. The palate is ripe and heady with opulent black and blueberry fruit, displaying fine acidity and white pepper and thyme toward the finish. It’s a wine that I think will drink…

Looking The Part: Pichon-Baron 1953 – 2015 (Jan 2019)

The 1997 Pichon-Baron has a light bouquet of dusty black fruit, rather leathery and missing a little definition. It has fatigued since I last tasted it. The medium-bodied palate is thin and simple, with dry tannin, and now lacks vigor toward the finish. Even in the context of a problematic vintage, this is an underwhelming…

1999, 1998 and 1997 Bordeaux (May 2000)

Dullish ruby-red. Aromas of currant, leather, smoked meat and dill. Sweet plummy flavors in the mouth; offers good vinosity and a rather easygoing structure. Finishes with late notes of pepper and leather.

Caught Somewhere in Time: Clos de Tart 1887-2016 (Feb 2019)

The 2016 Clos de Tart Grand Cru, cropped at 35hl/ha, is the first year farmed biodynamically. This was completely breathtaking in barrel, and now, in bottle, nothing has changed in that respect. It has an ineffably complex bouquet, not as intense as it showed in barrel yet extremely deep and cerebral, black fruit mingling with…