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Champagne: The 2017 Summer Preview (Jul 2017)

The 2002 Clos du Mesnil is wonderfully pliant and expressive in the glass. The radiant personality of the year comes through in the wine’s ripe, tropically-leaning flavors and open-knit personality. I imagine the 2002 will develop at a relatively fast pace by Clos du Mesnil standards. Even so, there is more than enough freshness underpinning…

Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 2005 Yquem is limpid golden in hue. The bouquet is gorgeous, finely-tuned and precise with clear honey, vanilla pod and saffron, less of the almond that I have noticed previously. The palate is built around its exquisite poise, the acidity keeping this Yquem on its tip-toes. As I have noted before, it appears to…

Survive Us All: Latour 1858-2018 (Feb 2024)

The 2008 Latour has a fragrant and floral bouquet with blueberry and blackberry fruit, violet and pressed iris petals, almost Margaux-like in style. The palate is medium-bodied with touches of brown spice on the entry. There’s a good definition here. Graphite notes appear toward a finish that tapers a little, giving away that it comes…

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Medium ruby-red. Inviting aromas of plum, warm stones, red licorice and menthol. Suave, gentle and elegantly styled; distinctly sweeter and lusher today than the La Mission, with even more mid-palate depth. Showing more red fruits today as well, with pungent minerality giving the wine lift and juiciness. Finishes with suave but substantial building tannins. Last…

The Best New Releases from Australia, Part Two (Sep 2011)

Inky ruby. Deep aromas and flavors of cherry compote, dark berries, sassafras and tobacco, with an overlay of sexy oak spices. Quite backward but shows formidable density, depth and sweetness. Slow-building, supple tannins give a structural underpinning to the long, sappy, smoky finish. Still a baby and in need of at least five more years…