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Veneto: Stunning Landscapes, Stunning Wines (Mar 2014)

The 2008 Amarone della Valpolicella is compelling. With a little air, the tannins begin to soften, releasing a myriad of intense dark aromas and flavors. Bittersweet chocolate, cloves, violets, plums and blackberry jam cover every inch of the palate in a stunning, headspinning Amarone that captures all of the best qualities of the year. When…

The Consistently Delectable 2014 Red Burgundies (Jan 2016)

(from tiny grapes in what Lignier described as the last plot in Mazoyères before Charmes; 13. 2% natural alcohol; 60% vendange entier; Lignier did just a single pigeage late in the fermentation): Deep red-ruby. Superripe but brooding aromas of cassis, blackberry, smoked meat, game, licorice and bitter chocolate. Plush, thick and sweet but with surprising…

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

The 1989 Lafite-Rothschild has a well-defined bouquet, earthy in style, with cedar and wild strawberry at the start and later flanked by dried rose petals. Given that this is a First Growth, it does miss a bit of cohesion and horsepower. The palate is medium-bodied with finely chiseled tannins and a keen thread of acidity,…

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Pavie Macquin opens with a burst of sweet red cherry/red plum fruit. Cedar, sweet pipe tobacco, mint, spicecake and dried flowers add layers of nuance. Even with all of its luscious fruit, the tannins remain pretty imposing. The 2005 needs a good bit of aeration to be at its best. I don’t find…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Pavie Macquin (Mar 2014)

(14.8% alcohol; 3.39 pH): Fully saturated deep ruby-red. Brooding aromas of cassis, plum, violet, minerals and aromatic herbs hint at knockout depth and purity. Dense, rich and multi-layered, showing great precision and a seamless texture to the painfully young blackberry, cassis, truffle and mineral flavors. Finishes rich, pure and long, with hints of cocoa and…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Bright ruby-red. Superripe, perfumed nose dominated by griotte cherry, raspberry and cocoa. Lush, smooth and impressively concentrated, with enough acidity and minerality to leaven the wine’s almost port-like ripeness (the pH here, always low, is barely 3.55 in 2005, according to Nicolas Thienpont). Very deep flavors of sweet cherry and dark berries carry through on…