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The 2010 Red Burgundies (Feb 2012)

The 2010 Clos des Lambrays is striking. Dark cherries, plums, wild berries, spices and licorice are woven together beautifully in this highly expressive, singular wine. A cool vein of minerality is a common thread as the wine continues to take shape in the glass. There is a beguiling, mysterious quality to the finish I find…

Domaine des Lambrays’ Clos des Lambrays 1966-2012 (Apr 2019)

Bright pale-medium red. Higher-pitched but more reticent on the nose than the 2012, showing a distinctly floral aspect as well as a redder fruit quality; more delicate and pristine. Wonderfully sexy and complex if somewhat youthfully tight in the mouth, conveying an ineffable silkiness of texture rather than the sheer plushness of the ’12. Less…

An Exploration of Time: Gruaud Larose 1831-2018 (Mar 2024)

The 2000 Gruaud Larose has a perfumed and floral nose, touches of leather, wild mint and just a little Brettanomyces in the background, though not as much as the 1990 tasted alongside. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, fresher than the 1990, grainy tannins with touches of pencil lead and allspice. A little espresso…

Written in the Stars: Bordeaux 1865-2020 (Dec 2023)

The 2004 Palmer is not one of my favorite vintages of that decade, though this is one of the best bottles. It lacks intensity and harmony on the nose, with prominent tobacco/cigar smoke scents and just a hint of boot polish. The palate is medium-bodied and spicy on the entry, with a touch of licorice…

Domaine Armand Rousseau: Chambertin 1988 – 2002 (Aug 2017)

Rousseau’s 2002 Chambertin is in the zone. Succulent, racy and open, the 2002 is ready to deliver pleasure. The purity of the fruit alone is striking. Even so, the 2002 is still very much at the early part of its first plateau of maturity, as the flavors remain very bright and fresh. In this vertical,…

2003 and 2002 Red Burgundies (Mar 2005)

Deep ruby-red. Subdued but complex aromas of black fruits, licorice, bitter chocolate and fresh herbs. Extremely dense but backward, with superb purity and penetration of black fruits, bitter chocolate and licorice. Wonderfully sweet and aromatic in the mouth, but rather brooding today, and a bit closed in on itself. Very slow-building finish shows substantial but…