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Back to Burgfest: 2017 Whites – Blind (Aug 2021)

The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières 1er Cru is well defined on the nose, fresh and taut, with an abiding sense of purity and delineation. Joyous aromatics! The palate is crisp on the entry and well balanced, although this is the one Folatières where I find the oak impedes and rather occludes the terroir, rendering it…

Cellar Favorite: 2020 Château d’Yquem (Jun 2023)

The 2020 Yquem, a blend of 75% Semillon and 25% Sauvignon Blanc, cropped at a measly 10hl/ha, has a very sensual bouquet. It’s pretty mercurial as it unfolds in the glass, with scents of freshly sliced white peaches, almonds and pineapple. The oak is beautifully integrated, and allowing it further time, there are additional scents…

Champagne: The 2023 Spring Preview (May 2023)

The 2013 Comtes de Champagne captures all the pedigree of this great vintage in its energy, depth and vibrancy. Lemon confit, dried flowers, chamomile, spice and crushed rocks all race across the palate. Passionfruit, ginger, marzipan and mint appear later, filling out the layers beautifully. Harvest took place in October in what has become the…

The 2022 Champagne New Releases (May 2022)

The 2013 Comtes de Champagne captures all the pedigree of this great vintage in its energy, depth and vibrancy. Lemon confit, dried flowers, chamomile, spice and crushed rocks all race across the palate. Passionfruit, ginger, marzipan and mint appear later, filling out the layers beautifully. Harvest took place in October in what has become the…

Champagne: 2021 New Releases (Nov 2021)

Bollinger’s 2007 R.D. is superb, but it is also a wine that reflects the nature of a unique and challenging growing season. In most vintages the R.D. is marked by the distinct creaminess and breadth of Aÿ Pinot Noir. Two thousand seven, though, was a difficult year marked by very dry weather, rain at the…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Pavie Macquin (Mar 2014)

(14.5% alcohol; 3.34 pH): Opaque ruby-red. Aromatic nose of ripe black cherry, strawberry syrup, incense, smoke and cedar. Sweet and creamy on entry, then fresher and livelier in the middle, with mineral-driven flavors of red cherry and raspberry jam. The high but harmonious acidity gives this wine good clarity and cut and makes it seem…