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1996 and 1995 Red Burgundies (Mar 1998)

Excellent deep red. Higher-pitched, liqueur-like aromas of raspberry, cassis and licorice; subtle and complex. Lush, voluptuous and stuffed with dark fruit flavor. Finishes with dusty, substantial tannins that build in the glass. This wine fabulous fruit is easy to see today, but it, too, wants to shut down.

Myth Over Matter: Mature Burgundy 1920-2019 (Mar 2023)

The 1991 La Tâche Grand Cru, from magnum, is drinking beautifully. Vivacious red cherries and crushed strawberries almost reluctantly emerge, perhaps the larger format making sure the aromatics are more backward compared to bottles tasted in the past. Light scents of sea spray and crushed rock. Fine tannins frame the palate; it’s a structured and…

Archive Away: Mature Burgundies 1919-2019 (Jun 2024)

The 1995 La Tâche Grand Cru is an outstanding wine from a decade when I don’t think the Domaine was firing on all cylinders. This echoes the magnum tasted last year with those ebullient red cherries and crushed strawberry scents on the nose. As you might expect from the bottle format, it’s a little more…

New Releases from Champagne (Dec 2008)

The 1998 Brut Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill opens with intriguing, exotic notes of smoke, cured meats and tar. This is a big, sweeping Sir Winston Churchill endowed with layers of perfumed ripe pears, quince, flowers and spices in a style that balances a generous expression of fruit with acidity and minerality. Everything is in the…

New Vintage Champagnes (Nov 2007)

Light gold. Intensely aromatic nose offers a complex bouquet of smoky orchard and pit fruit aromas, along with exotic orange zest and white pepper. Deep and chewy, displaying impressively concentrated but brisk pear and bitter citrus pith flavors and an undercurrent of buttery brioche and lees. Finishes with palate-staining persistence and a subtle anise quality….

Champagne: The 2024 Spring Preview (Mar 2024)

The 1998 Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill Vinothèque is a fabulous choice for readers who want to enjoy a fully mature Champagne. Apricot jam, spice, baked apple tart, honey, passion fruit, orange marmalade and butter are all beautifully amplified. Readers will find a heady, exotic Champagne that dazzles both the intellectual and hedonistic senses. I would…