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2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

One of the stars of the vintage, the 2015 Domaine de Chevalier has turned out even better than I expected. Bright floral notes give striking aromatic lift to the rich, sumptuous fruit. A marvelously complete wine, the 2015 is racy and silky on the palate, yet also has tremendous freshness. Bright red cherry, blood orange,…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Le Clarence de Haut-Brion, which impressed from barrel, has a gorgeous, sensual bouquet of showy black fruit, potpourri and incense, almost Saint-Émilion in style and very well defined. The focused, poised palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, very good tension and splendid weight on the finish. It ranks as one of the best…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Le Clarence de Haut-Brion has really come out of its shell. Bold, juicy and super-expressive, Le Clarence is so polished and sophisticated. Dried herbs, cedar, tobacco, licorice and coffee lift out of the glass. Medium in body and wonderfully persistent, the Clarence is a real beauty.

Value Through Time: Burgundy 1932-2016 (Aug 2021)

The 1996 Richebourg Grand Cru is a wine that I have drunk several times. The intense nose has opened a little since my last encounter, evolving to offer enticing scents of violet and earthenware notes; a hint of brine emerges with time. The palate is as introverted as previous bottles but opens with blackberry, meat…

1997 and 1996 Red Burgundies (Mar 1999)

Good deep red-ruby. Wild but rather opaque on the deeply pitched nose; hints at cassis and leather. Gives an impression of higher acidity than the foregoing wines and comes across as a bit disjointed today. With less fat showing today, the tannins are a bit tough. But this wine is hiding more than it’s showing…

1996 and 1995 Red Burgundies (Mar 1998)

Very good dark red. Higher-pitched spice and earth nose, complicated by exotic smoky-oak tones. Riper and silkier in the mouth, but given shape and firmness by a mineral underpinning. Finishes with substantial tongue-dusting tannins and a hint of caramel oak.