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The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Ausone, aged for 20 months in new French oak, was tasted over a period of 24 hours. It has a very intense nose featuring layers of black cherries and blueberry fruit; the violet element is initially even more expressive than when I tasted this from barrel, then gradually ebbs by the second day….

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

When I tasted the 2018 Cheval Blanc from barrel, I felt that it deserved a very good score, though not one that implied potential perfection. The bottle was tasted upon opening, but I only began to pen my tasting note after 3–4 hours’ decanting. I still find the bouquet more open than many recent vintages,…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Cheval Blanc is magnificent. In a vintage in which so many wines are opulent and dense, Cheval Blanc maintains striking translucence while conveying the natural radiance of the year. Silky, perfumed and exceptionally vivid, the 2018 pulses with energy from start to finish. Sage, mint, lavender and mocha all meld together on the…

Back to Burgfest: 2017 Reds – Blind (Jan 2022)

The 2017 Vosne-Romanée Les Beaux Monts 1er Cru presents a pure, well-defined nose offering sous-bois character and good focus. The palate is well balanced, nicely structured, not amazingly complex but strict, with a fresh, spicy finish that lingers. This needs time to resolve, but it should come through nicely. A little introverted, so be patient……

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Bright red-ruby. Sexy aromas of currant, chocolate and flowers, plus hints of cedar, smoky oak. Plump, lush and fine-grained, showing a remarkably seamless texture for a second wine. Very ripe flavors of currant, mocha, beefsteak tomato and chocolate turn a bit roasted in the glass. Finishes with a smooth dusting of tannins and ripe, chocolatey…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Les Pagodes de Cos takes a few swirls of the glass to unfurl, perhaps never quite clicking into fifth gear. Tobacco-stained black fruit, briary and woodland scents eventually emerge; with decanting I suspect this would transmute into an attractive bouquet. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannin, quite symmetrical and extremely well balanced….