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Alto Piemonte, Valtellina & Points North (Mar 2022)

The 2018 Gattinara Valferana is explosive right out of the glass. Supporting veins of tannin carry a core of red fruit, cinnamon, rose petal, blood orange, mint and white pepper. The Valferana is complex and wonderfully deep from start to finish. Valferana is the cooler of the two single vineyard Gattinaras that are bottled separately…

Montevertine: Le Pergole Torte 1980-2012 (Jan 2016)

The 2012 Le Pergole Torte is brilliant. In fact, this is one of the best showings of the 2012 that I can recall. The flavors are bright, focused and pulsing with energy. Because of its mid-weight structure and not overly complex personality, the 2012 looks like it will start drinking well sooner rather than later….

2012 and 2011 Northern Rhone Wines (Mar 2014)

Tasted first in components: #1, from Beute du Mont, which is just above Maison Rouge in Tupin: Fresh red fruit and floral aromas and flavors show good energy and pick up a spicy quality with aeration. Bright and sharply focused, finishing with good clarity and cut. #2, from Fontgeant: Riper, spicier and darker in character,…

2012 and 2011 Northern Rhone Wines (Mar 2014)

Inky ruby. Fresh blueberry, cherry and floral pastille scents are complemented by deeper notes of candied licorice and pipe tobacco. Offers an array of dark fruit and pungent spice flavors that gain sweetness with air and pick up a smoky quality. Finishes smooth and long, leaving juicy blue fruit and peppery spice notes behind. Lots…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, taken from barrel, is just missing some energy and conviction on the nose, and does not exude the terroir. The palate is better with fine depth and well judged acidity, but it doesn’t quite deliver the complexity and nuance from the best exponents from the hill. I am rather underwhelmed…

The 2015 Red Burgundies: You Are So Going To Want Them (Jan 2017)

(these village vines are situated just under Les Saint-Georges; one-third new oak): Dark red. Highly perfumed scents of raspberry and musky game. Sweet, pliant and deep, conveying a distinctly creamy texture to its red berry and spice flavors. Offers more weight and finishing perfume than the basic Nuits-Saint-Georges village wine.