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Exploring Northern Rhône Whites (May 2020)

Tasted in components. #1) Peleat: Emphatically floral, with powerful pear, Meyer lemon qualities, building iodine, fennel and mineral notes. #2) Rocoules Haute: Pungent citrus fruits, pear skin and jasmine on the nose. Weighty yet lithe as well, showing serious intensity to its sappy orchard and citrus fruit flavors. #3) Rocoules mid-slope: Spicy and incisive, showing…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2019 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru needed a little encouragement from the glass. Eventually it reveals captivating scents of honeysuckle, petrichor and pressed yellow flowers, an underlying spiciness that comes through with aeration. The palate has a beguiling symmetry from the start: a killer line of acidity counterbalancing the intensity of this Chevalier, gentle grip towards…

2014 Bordeaux: It Ain’t Over Till It’s Over (Apr 2015)

The 2014 Pétrus possesses remarkable density and power, with superb overall depth and an explosive sense of energy that is impossible to miss. Scents of violet, spice and rose petal open up in the glass before the fruit totally takes over. Broad and resonant throughout, Pétrus is one of the bigger, richer wines readers will…

Bordeaux 2014: The Southwold Tasting (Mar 2018)

The 2014 Petrus has a bouquet that storms from the glass with exotic red cherries, blood orange, strawberry tart and cedar scents, only calming down after several minutes. Rich and opulent – although they are not facets of a truly great Petrus to me. The palate is medium-bodied with a sweet core of candied red…

Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Petrus has a slightly more extroverted bouquet compared directly with Lafleur. Crushed strawberry mixes with cranberry, orange rind and light cedar scents. With aeration, there are hints of dark chocolate and wild fennel. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, very cohesive and fresh. I feel that this Petrus has tightened up in…

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

Powerful and brooding as a young wine from barrel, the 2015 Pétrus has developed exquisite finesse and nuance to play off its natural concentration. Winemaker Oliver Berrouet has always spoken of small berry size as one of the signatures of 2015. To be sure, there is plenty of textural richness and overall intensity. At the…