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Variations on a Theme: Burgundy 2020 Whites (Jul 2024)

The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles 1er Cru has a slight mustiness on the nose at first, clarifying to a degree with aeration. Light peppermint scents emerge and perhaps slightly detract from its terroir. There’s more yellow fruit here. The palate is well-balanced with a tangy opening, fresh and vibrant. This is a livewire Les Pucelles…

New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2010)

(63% pinot noir and 37% chardonnay) Bright yellow-gold. High-pitched aromas of lemongrass, orange peel, pear and white pepper, with a slow-building smokiness. Energetic, sharply focused citrus flavors gain depth with air, picking up deeper orchard and pit fruit character while retaining vivacity. Leaves a trail of piquant minerals and citrus zest behind on the long,…

New Releases from Champagne (Dec 2010)

The 2000 Brut La Grande Année is a ripe, open wine bursting with generous, expansive fruit. Smoke, minerals, pastry crust and flowers add complexity to the radiant fruit. The Grande Année reveals gorgeous depth and a multi-dimensional, kaleidoscopic personality that screams of pure breed. The 2000 will be a fascinating vintage to follow. I am…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2005)

Light gold color. Deep, rich and toasty on the nose, with suggestions of earthy truffle, cocoa and candied apple. This is really classic Bollinger in style. Rich, broad and thick, with weighty poached pear and buttered toast flavors that linger on the finish with real authority. Fans of the house style will adore this.

The Glorious 2002 Red Burgundies (Feb 2016)

Full reddish brown. Knockout perfumed nose combines raspberry, mocha, truffle and smoky minerality (we’re entering the world of fungus, humus and leaves, noted winemaker Frédéric Barnier). Utterly spherical and round, conveying seamless flavors of raspberry, truffley underbrush and coffee. Slightly edgy tannins and acids draw out and give shape to the finish. But this bottle…

Vinous Table: The Sportsman, Kent, UK (Sep 2022)

The 2004 Saumur-Champigny Les Poyeux from Clos Rougeard has an entrancing nose with perfumed red cherry and crushed strawberry fruit, hints of oxtail and black truffle emerging with time and developing a Bordeaux-like scent, which is not totally unsurprising given the Cabernet Franc in question. The palate is medium-bodied with exquisite balance and a taut…