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Focus on Champagne (Nov 1998)

Floral aromas of apple, pear blossom, mint and marzipan. Big, lush and rich in the mouth, with perfumed notes of pear blossom and white rose. Displays the tactile quality and creamy middle shown by the better wines from this very rich vintage. Fat and strong in extract. Finishes firm and rather powerful, with an edge…

Back to Burgfest: 2017 Reds – Blind (Jan 2022)

The 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is somewhat underwhelming on the nose and lacks the freshness of its peers; I wonder if it has closed down. The palate is medium-bodied with an earthy entry, balanced and fresh, but overtly leafy and slightly herbaceous toward the finish. There is something very old-school about this Bonnes-Mares, but I…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Richebourg Grand Cru has a refined and beautifully focused bouquet, like the Aux Brûlées, a gradual build of red fruit laced with crushed stone and wilted rose petal. The palate is very focused with finely chiselled tannins, fanning out wonderfully on the finish. Perhaps a much more elegant Richebourg than its peers, this…

Alsace & Luxembourg: 2017s and Late-Released 2016s (Jan 2019)

Golden-tinged yellow. Almond paste, beurre blanc, lemon curd, sweet spices, coconut and toast, complicated by a hint of petrol. Bright and acid, offering lively flavors similar to the aromas. A hint of noble rot is typical of the vintage, as it was in 1998. This is very complex, especially on the nose, and boasts a…

Cellar Favorites: Château Latour – New Releases (Jul 2016)

The 2000 Latour is an attractive wine, although I would have like to see a little more freshness, especially in the aromatics, for such a young Grand Vin. Round, creamy tannins give the 2000 much of its seamless, open-knit personality. Spice, leather, dark cherry and plum take on exotic shades of expression. With time in…

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2000 Latour is very deep in color. The nose is backward and demands coaxing from the glass, eventually revealing intense black fruit, cedar, graphite and very subtle Japanese nori aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with an arching structure that grips the mouth. The tannins are a little bolder than the 2001. This unfolds swirl…